In Damascus, we are regularly asked how we find Syria. Everyone is very concerned with the impression of Syria in the Western media, and wants Syria to be known for its good people and safe travel.
Since we are at the end of our trip, we thought this would be a good time to go back over some of our expectations, surprises, and impressions.
E expected Syria to be a place of surprises, but had no idea what these surprises might be. M assumed the travel would be easy and was surprised by some of the challenges.
We were largely pleased with the generosity of the people we met, and the difficulty of refusing a cup of tea. Backgammon, nargilehs, and children are signs of a good life. Young boys run around all over Syria. They fall down, and they get up without crying and keep running around. Older boys balance on the tops of ruins. Women, young and old, move in flocks. The run-ins we had that were not positive, seem to derive from the parts of society that are more sexually segregated and repressed (largely in Aleppo and Hama). We saw no anti-Western behavior. There is clearly a very large young, urban population that is very in touch with the Western world - iphones, ringtones, and clothes. We wonder if big changes in culture and religion are on the horizon in Syria, but are reminded also of the very traditional lifestyles that are still found around the country as well.
Traveling is not easy, but works well with patience and the recognition that time in Syria does not run on Western clocks. We had mixed experiences with food and wish our stash of granola bars had been greater. Mid-range hotels were largely bug-free and AC-ed, but probably best parallel budget-range hotels in the Western world. Busses work well for moves between major cities, the major downside of train travel is the difficulty of purchasing tickets and the early-departure times. Private cars are great for sites, but smoking drivers and other problems may arise. Prices are always to high, so bargain, bargain, bargain. Gas costs nothing here, so calculate by the time. Shopping in the souqs is a must-do, but dont expect to find "unique" treasures. Bargain, and look for workshops if there is time.
We came here for E to visit the sites and museums and we are leaving having seen so much more. Tells are not for everyone, but they are for us. Syria is often called the "crossroads" of civilizations and we saw why. Sites in Syria cover almost all of human history. People come here to see Crusader sites or Islamic architecture at its finest but they also find some of the best preserved Roman ruins in the world and dozens of ancient tells. Many times, as with the statues from Palmyra, the blending of West and East artistic traditions is evident. Christians and Muslims cohabit in the major cities, and sties like Dura Europos reminded us that this is not a new circumstance. Sites in mountains, on the sea, and in the desert exhibit a variety of adjustments to the local environment: brick architecture near the mountains, mud-brick along the Euphrates, and the tents of the Bedouins still dot the perimeters of the cities.
It wasn’t easy, but it was remarkable. Inshallah, we will see Syria again.
Monday, July 6, 2009
You might be in Syria if...
You get confused between the pool showers and bathrooms because they look so similar.
You have a familiar pain in your stomach.
The sign above a road side gas station reads "DIZEL."
You cant find Coca-Cola products but you can find Ugarit Cola.
Red means cold, blue means hot. Or the shower has two faucets that both say "H".
7/10 songs on the radio use the word "Habibi," "beloved". For variation, "Ya habibi", something like "hey beloved."
Children throw stones. For fun.
Fisherman fish. With bombs.
People say "donkey" and you dont know why. You may also see donkeys, even in the city.
The beduoin tricycle-truck. Full of people and ready to fall over at any minute.
A whole family can fit on a motorcycle.
A car backs up. On a main road.
Speed limits are ignored. As are lanes.
The American president is Muslim. Surprise.
You see the Mari water goddess. Everywhere.
Car horns are used more often than the break.
Seatbelts are tucked into the backseat. Apparently safety ruins the decorative appeal.
Every other person is smoking a nargileh.
A bottle of water at a store = SL 25. At a hotel resteraunt, this same bottle = SL 125. (US $ 2.50)
A plain cheese pizza has olives, tomatoes, and spices.
Your Lonely Planet guide is wrong. About opening hours, quality, names of resteraunts, maps, bus companies, and more.
Your taxi driver has no idea where you are going, and doesn't know street names.
The guards at the museums will let you take photos. For Bakshish.
You driver insists on buying you juice, cookies, or water. He (a) wants bakshish or (b) went inside to get directions. Probably both.
Opening hours subject to change.
The jewelry seller in the souq tells you he has a necklace with the Ugaritic alphabet. He then points to a stone and says: "See this stone? This is the color of sincerity." You say: "I can read Ugaritic, and thats not the alphabet." He coughs and says "Ah. I see."
Figeh water bottles leave blue stains on your hand and clothes.
You are at a site, and the driver comes over. Just to make sure you haven't been eaten by dogs.
The train is a family free-for-all. So are planes.
You have to squeegee the bathroom floor after each shower to avoid flooding.
"Do not disturb" signs dont exist at hotels. If they do, they are ignored.
A menu entry says "Chicken dinner." You ask the waiter what this is. He says: "Chicken."
Facebook is blocked at the internet cafe. So is your blog.
Dinner is at 10pm.
Feral cats want your dinner. You decide to eat inside.
Cracks in the windshield are not a concern.
Breakfast is woeful. Unless you like cheese and olives at 8am.
Each shop in the souq makes or produces its own goods. You start to get suspicious.
You stop noticing photos of the president. Because you've seen so many.
People bang their two index fingers together to ask if you are married. Then they ask (slightly horrified): "No baby?"
The sound of Celine Dion blasts across the Palmyran desert.
You have a familiar pain in your stomach.
The sign above a road side gas station reads "DIZEL."
You cant find Coca-Cola products but you can find Ugarit Cola.
Red means cold, blue means hot. Or the shower has two faucets that both say "H".
7/10 songs on the radio use the word "Habibi," "beloved". For variation, "Ya habibi", something like "hey beloved."
Children throw stones. For fun.
Fisherman fish. With bombs.
People say "donkey" and you dont know why. You may also see donkeys, even in the city.
The beduoin tricycle-truck. Full of people and ready to fall over at any minute.
A whole family can fit on a motorcycle.
A car backs up. On a main road.
Speed limits are ignored. As are lanes.
The American president is Muslim. Surprise.
You see the Mari water goddess. Everywhere.
Car horns are used more often than the break.
Seatbelts are tucked into the backseat. Apparently safety ruins the decorative appeal.
Every other person is smoking a nargileh.
A bottle of water at a store = SL 25. At a hotel resteraunt, this same bottle = SL 125. (US $ 2.50)
A plain cheese pizza has olives, tomatoes, and spices.
Your Lonely Planet guide is wrong. About opening hours, quality, names of resteraunts, maps, bus companies, and more.
Your taxi driver has no idea where you are going, and doesn't know street names.
The guards at the museums will let you take photos. For Bakshish.
You driver insists on buying you juice, cookies, or water. He (a) wants bakshish or (b) went inside to get directions. Probably both.
Opening hours subject to change.
The jewelry seller in the souq tells you he has a necklace with the Ugaritic alphabet. He then points to a stone and says: "See this stone? This is the color of sincerity." You say: "I can read Ugaritic, and thats not the alphabet." He coughs and says "Ah. I see."
Figeh water bottles leave blue stains on your hand and clothes.
You are at a site, and the driver comes over. Just to make sure you haven't been eaten by dogs.
The train is a family free-for-all. So are planes.
You have to squeegee the bathroom floor after each shower to avoid flooding.
"Do not disturb" signs dont exist at hotels. If they do, they are ignored.
A menu entry says "Chicken dinner." You ask the waiter what this is. He says: "Chicken."
Facebook is blocked at the internet cafe. So is your blog.
Dinner is at 10pm.
Feral cats want your dinner. You decide to eat inside.
Cracks in the windshield are not a concern.
Breakfast is woeful. Unless you like cheese and olives at 8am.
Each shop in the souq makes or produces its own goods. You start to get suspicious.
You stop noticing photos of the president. Because you've seen so many.
People bang their two index fingers together to ask if you are married. Then they ask (slightly horrified): "No baby?"
The sound of Celine Dion blasts across the Palmyran desert.
Day 42
Its our last day in Syria (sniff*). Day 42. A few final notes:
Sunset on Mount Qassioun, overlooking Damascus, seems to no longer be a sight and sound experience. The view is amazing but the local popularity of the site means cars, horns, radios, and chatter obscure the sound of the call to worship that goes off when the sun sets.
No Conversion to British Pounds in Syria.
Just learned onions cure all stomach problems. (FOL)
Songs, flags, and Shiite travellers in Ummayad mosque around the shrine of Mohammed's grandson.
Finished the last of the really great boraks (fried pastry with cheese).
M learns how a nargileh works and that all his apple-flavored smokes actually ARE made of tabacco.
It now costs $30 instead of $4 to get OUT of Syria. (Its free to get in.)
Sunset on Mount Qassioun, overlooking Damascus, seems to no longer be a sight and sound experience. The view is amazing but the local popularity of the site means cars, horns, radios, and chatter obscure the sound of the call to worship that goes off when the sun sets.
No Conversion to British Pounds in Syria.
Just learned onions cure all stomach problems. (FOL)
Songs, flags, and Shiite travellers in Ummayad mosque around the shrine of Mohammed's grandson.
Finished the last of the really great boraks (fried pastry with cheese).
M learns how a nargileh works and that all his apple-flavored smokes actually ARE made of tabacco.
It now costs $30 instead of $4 to get OUT of Syria. (Its free to get in.)
Saturday, July 4, 2009
Wrapping up
We arrived in Damascus mid-day Thursday and are trying to squeeze in some more sightseeing, shopping and (over) eating before we head back home on Tuesday.
After an exhausting day wandering around Bosra, we treated ourselves to a nice dinner at the Halabi restaurant in the Four Seasons. M's favorite thing about this plus is all the free stuff you get! The waiter explained that in Syria giving you more and more food is about hospitality, so while we only ordered 4 plates, there were 7 on the table, plus a big fruit platter at the end! The icing on the cake was the famous Aleppan cherry kebab that the chef sent to us. Delicious.
Today, we've been re-visiting the Christian quarter of the Old City. We began with a cab ride to the Bab Kisan - one of the many "bab"s, or gates, to the Old City. This bab, however, is hardly a gate anymore, as the present site is a chapel dedicated to St. Paul. It is, in fact, the Biblical site where Paul fled the city of Damascus by bing lowered from a gate in a basket. From here, we followed the old city wall up to "Straight Street" with the remains of the Roman gate and evidence of what would have been a long collonade like those we have now seen at Palmyra and the Apamea. Just north, along a side street, is the chapel of Ananais, an early Damascene Christian, and purportedly one of the 72 chosen disciples (? I dont have a Bible on hand), as well as one of the players in Saul/Paul's healing and conversion in Damascus. Along the way we passed various Christian shrines to various saints, ranging in size from a room to a niche in the wall of a building. Lots of fun shops as well. But dont expect to find an open restraunt until 1pm...
After an exhausting day wandering around Bosra, we treated ourselves to a nice dinner at the Halabi restaurant in the Four Seasons. M's favorite thing about this plus is all the free stuff you get! The waiter explained that in Syria giving you more and more food is about hospitality, so while we only ordered 4 plates, there were 7 on the table, plus a big fruit platter at the end! The icing on the cake was the famous Aleppan cherry kebab that the chef sent to us. Delicious.
Today, we've been re-visiting the Christian quarter of the Old City. We began with a cab ride to the Bab Kisan - one of the many "bab"s, or gates, to the Old City. This bab, however, is hardly a gate anymore, as the present site is a chapel dedicated to St. Paul. It is, in fact, the Biblical site where Paul fled the city of Damascus by bing lowered from a gate in a basket. From here, we followed the old city wall up to "Straight Street" with the remains of the Roman gate and evidence of what would have been a long collonade like those we have now seen at Palmyra and the Apamea. Just north, along a side street, is the chapel of Ananais, an early Damascene Christian, and purportedly one of the 72 chosen disciples (? I dont have a Bible on hand), as well as one of the players in Saul/Paul's healing and conversion in Damascus. Along the way we passed various Christian shrines to various saints, ranging in size from a room to a niche in the wall of a building. Lots of fun shops as well. But dont expect to find an open restraunt until 1pm...
Bosra
Yesterday we took a bus trip from Damascus to Bosra, the second most impressive Roman site in Syria after Palmyra. Two things were especially interesting. First, there is an incredibly well-preserved theater that could seat 6,000 people and have room for another 2000-3000 people standing. Made in the black rock, basalt, that is prevalent in the area it is quite different than any theater to be found in other Roman territories. Second, the Arabs captured Bosra during the Crusades and so amidst these Roman ruins you have mosques and Arab fortifications, which is quite a contrast. Most interesting of the Arab constructions was the Umar Mosque which dates somewhere between 636 and 720, making it one of the oldest mosques known to the world (and it is still in use!). The Arabs also turned the theater into a citadel so the exterior of the theater is covered by fortifications.
Map Catch-up
An updated map with the added twists and turns of our travels:
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=100521782385554656879.00046a32f5d0b8e2e0a91&ll=34.966999,38.62793&spn=4.212966,7.042236&z=7
All marked places include at least a one night stay. It looks like this:
Damascus
Palmyra
Deir es-Zor
Aleppo
Kassab
Lattakia
Tartus
Krak des Chevaliers
Hama
Damascus
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=100521782385554656879.00046a32f5d0b8e2e0a91&ll=34.966999,38.62793&spn=4.212966,7.042236&z=7
All marked places include at least a one night stay. It looks like this:
Damascus
Palmyra
Deir es-Zor
Aleppo
Kassab
Lattakia
Tartus
Krak des Chevaliers
Hama
Damascus
Wednesday, July 1, 2009
Hama Massacre
In the 1980s, a radical Muslim sect based out of Hama attempted to assassinate the Syrian president. They failed. To stop the threat, the president retaliated by sending in the army to wipe out the rebels. The city of Hama was pretty much leveled during the fighting and I think we read that 10,000-25,000 people were killed. As you can imagine, it isn't something that is talked about very much.
We saw the main mosque of the Muslim sect that was destroyed and later rebuilt. The rest of the area has been rebuilt as well, and you can tell that many of the buildings look fairly new.
We saw the main mosque of the Muslim sect that was destroyed and later rebuilt. The rest of the area has been rebuilt as well, and you can tell that many of the buildings look fairly new.
Norias
This is a post about Hama's water wheels / norias.
Because we have seen over a dozen of them (originally there were 30, 17 remain today).
Because they are up to 20 meters in height and scoop water out of the Orontes river into aqueducts.
Because they are wooden (Dad, we know you love them...).
Because water wheel were first built in the region as early as the Byzantine period.
Because the are powered by the river itself (Nick now loves them too).
Because there are lots of restaurants on the banks of the river with kebabs and Syrian mezze that overlook the water wheels (David and other feasters rejoice!).
Because they make huge, loud, groaning noises.
And for those who dont love the norias yet, imagine watching bunches of Syrian guys climbing them and jumping off into the river. Nothing like a good spectacle.
Because we have seen over a dozen of them (originally there were 30, 17 remain today).
Because they are up to 20 meters in height and scoop water out of the Orontes river into aqueducts.
Because they are wooden (Dad, we know you love them...).
Because water wheel were first built in the region as early as the Byzantine period.
Because the are powered by the river itself (Nick now loves them too).
Because there are lots of restaurants on the banks of the river with kebabs and Syrian mezze that overlook the water wheels (David and other feasters rejoice!).
Because they make huge, loud, groaning noises.
And for those who dont love the norias yet, imagine watching bunches of Syrian guys climbing them and jumping off into the river. Nothing like a good spectacle.
Amrit or War
we saw Amrit while in Tartous.
The island off the coast of Tartous, Arwad, was a major site for the Phonecians. And nearby Amrit (on the mainland), has one of their temples, and some of their tombs (or something like this). The tombs are particularly great because:
1. they are huge pyramid structures with underground chambers
2. you can go underground, and yea, you need a flashlight
3. they are in the middle of a military base, and you can see machine guns in the background. too cool.
Photos in one direction were not allowed and the third tomb was surrounded by barbed wire (sadly for us, no entry). This may have been M's favorite site.
The island off the coast of Tartous, Arwad, was a major site for the Phonecians. And nearby Amrit (on the mainland), has one of their temples, and some of their tombs (or something like this). The tombs are particularly great because:
1. they are huge pyramid structures with underground chambers
2. you can go underground, and yea, you need a flashlight
3. they are in the middle of a military base, and you can see machine guns in the background. too cool.
Photos in one direction were not allowed and the third tomb was surrounded by barbed wire (sadly for us, no entry). This may have been M's favorite site.
We are pooped.
We're in Hama now, with lots to update on. The past week has seen us in Tartous, Krak des Chevaliers (Qala'at Hosn), and Hama, with lots of excursions and site-seeing.
Tartous was one of the most relaxing cities we have seen. The fabulous Corniche, a long sidewalk + parks along the sea is a hotspot for locals in the evening and not far from lots of decent food places. We capped off our stay here with a huge meal of mezze, nargileh, and (since it is such a relaxed place) beer. mmm beer, the regional beer even tastes good. From Tartous we made it to: 1 island, 2 museums, 3 tombs, and 1 tell. Horray for us. M even survived one very bumpy boat ride in the sea aboard one of the local brightly colored commuting boats that each boast 1 life vest and 30 pasengers. We give two thumbs up to the Cathedral of our Lady of Tortousa - turned - museum, Amrit tombs, promenading and sunsets, and even the boat ride (just dont eat before riding). But the island of Arwad gets a thumbs down for smells, squatty bathrooms, and flies. All our safest looking/tasting meals were had at Vaimodos. We recommend it.
We spent a night at Krak des Chevaliers to see the worlds best preserved crusader castle. En route, we fit in a trip to Hosn Suleiman - an ancient religious site up in the mountains that is memorable for its massive blocks, decent state of Roman period ruins, and a pesky man who wants money to point and say "Greco-Roman." "Phonecian." No thanks buddy. Krak des Chevaliers is definately the best crusader site to visit, and our first siting of Western tourists in many days proves just how popular this place is. At a fast pace, we covered the outer walls, and several stories of the inner fortress and its buildings in just under 2 hours. The castle's location on the end of a mountain range meant a stiff wind that kept us cool, but also kept E from staying on the tops of any of the towers and ramparts for very long. E was up the stairs, 1 photo, and down. Poor M. (E wants to point out that these towers have NO railings at all.) We took dinner at the only place that Lonely Planet recommends, and can only report that the food was uber greasy.
We made Hama a destination for three reasons: (1) as a base for excursions to the Roman Apamea, and the Byzantine Dead Cities, (2) because E wanted to see the famous water wheels (norias), and (3) so M could see the site of the famous Hama massacre. The Apamea is like a Palmyra without the palms. Or the desert. Bascially its not as good. And M worked so hard to master the plan of the site that he was really disappointed when things like the Roman theater only have traces of remains. E however had a great time, because she spotted a baby owl on top of the collonade and spent a quarter of an hour taking pictures and videos... Dead Cities were fun. There are over 600 monuments, buildings and cities between Hama and Aleppo that were abandoned for unknown reasons over 1000 years ago and their ruins now sit among modern villages, olive groves, and fields. We started with Al-Bara and used up all our energy hiking around the olive groves in the intense heat and should have saved up more energy for Serjila which is much easier to access and appreciate. Both are big hits with tourists. The water wheels are AMAZING, and the buildings in what used to be the old city are all definitely build within the past 25 years. They have managed to restore the old mosque so that it doesnt look too new. As the mosque was one of the main sites for the Hama uprising, E expected it to be more formidable looking. But the walls were not higher than 6-8 feet. Look for more on the masacre and the water wheels.
Our only problem so far is that the conservative attitude we met in Aleppo and the strange behaviors it seemed to bring out are worse in Hama. For decades, travelers to Hama have praised the city's beauty and bemoaned the conservative and sometimes verging on fanatical residents. We got a taste of both our first night. We ate a really good dinner at a riverside terrace across from the water wheels, stopped in at an artist's workshop area and were enjoying a lazy walk home when a young guy came out from behind a corner, grabbed E's breast and then took off running. It sucked. A lot. The guy had passed us, doubled, back, and then hid, just to be a brute. And people who later saw E crying either avoided her (women) or stared (men). M is now on a mission to make sure no man comes near E, and waves wildly at the old men who stare at her. Its totally unfair, because E is wearing long skirts and long sleeved clothing, and we have seen tons of older tourists wear a lot less. For the record, we have also had several people be ridiculously nice, including one man who stopped just to tell us it was easier to cross the road 10 meters further down. So Hama is a mixed bag. Some great sites, soem really good people, and some sexually repressed crazies
Tartous was one of the most relaxing cities we have seen. The fabulous Corniche, a long sidewalk + parks along the sea is a hotspot for locals in the evening and not far from lots of decent food places. We capped off our stay here with a huge meal of mezze, nargileh, and (since it is such a relaxed place) beer. mmm beer, the regional beer even tastes good. From Tartous we made it to: 1 island, 2 museums, 3 tombs, and 1 tell. Horray for us. M even survived one very bumpy boat ride in the sea aboard one of the local brightly colored commuting boats that each boast 1 life vest and 30 pasengers. We give two thumbs up to the Cathedral of our Lady of Tortousa - turned - museum, Amrit tombs, promenading and sunsets, and even the boat ride (just dont eat before riding). But the island of Arwad gets a thumbs down for smells, squatty bathrooms, and flies. All our safest looking/tasting meals were had at Vaimodos. We recommend it.
We spent a night at Krak des Chevaliers to see the worlds best preserved crusader castle. En route, we fit in a trip to Hosn Suleiman - an ancient religious site up in the mountains that is memorable for its massive blocks, decent state of Roman period ruins, and a pesky man who wants money to point and say "Greco-Roman." "Phonecian." No thanks buddy. Krak des Chevaliers is definately the best crusader site to visit, and our first siting of Western tourists in many days proves just how popular this place is. At a fast pace, we covered the outer walls, and several stories of the inner fortress and its buildings in just under 2 hours. The castle's location on the end of a mountain range meant a stiff wind that kept us cool, but also kept E from staying on the tops of any of the towers and ramparts for very long. E was up the stairs, 1 photo, and down. Poor M. (E wants to point out that these towers have NO railings at all.) We took dinner at the only place that Lonely Planet recommends, and can only report that the food was uber greasy.
We made Hama a destination for three reasons: (1) as a base for excursions to the Roman Apamea, and the Byzantine Dead Cities, (2) because E wanted to see the famous water wheels (norias), and (3) so M could see the site of the famous Hama massacre. The Apamea is like a Palmyra without the palms. Or the desert. Bascially its not as good. And M worked so hard to master the plan of the site that he was really disappointed when things like the Roman theater only have traces of remains. E however had a great time, because she spotted a baby owl on top of the collonade and spent a quarter of an hour taking pictures and videos... Dead Cities were fun. There are over 600 monuments, buildings and cities between Hama and Aleppo that were abandoned for unknown reasons over 1000 years ago and their ruins now sit among modern villages, olive groves, and fields. We started with Al-Bara and used up all our energy hiking around the olive groves in the intense heat and should have saved up more energy for Serjila which is much easier to access and appreciate. Both are big hits with tourists. The water wheels are AMAZING, and the buildings in what used to be the old city are all definitely build within the past 25 years. They have managed to restore the old mosque so that it doesnt look too new. As the mosque was one of the main sites for the Hama uprising, E expected it to be more formidable looking. But the walls were not higher than 6-8 feet. Look for more on the masacre and the water wheels.
Our only problem so far is that the conservative attitude we met in Aleppo and the strange behaviors it seemed to bring out are worse in Hama. For decades, travelers to Hama have praised the city's beauty and bemoaned the conservative and sometimes verging on fanatical residents. We got a taste of both our first night. We ate a really good dinner at a riverside terrace across from the water wheels, stopped in at an artist's workshop area and were enjoying a lazy walk home when a young guy came out from behind a corner, grabbed E's breast and then took off running. It sucked. A lot. The guy had passed us, doubled, back, and then hid, just to be a brute. And people who later saw E crying either avoided her (women) or stared (men). M is now on a mission to make sure no man comes near E, and waves wildly at the old men who stare at her. Its totally unfair, because E is wearing long skirts and long sleeved clothing, and we have seen tons of older tourists wear a lot less. For the record, we have also had several people be ridiculously nice, including one man who stopped just to tell us it was easier to cross the road 10 meters further down. So Hama is a mixed bag. Some great sites, soem really good people, and some sexually repressed crazies
Thursday, June 25, 2009
Ugarit Overview
Ugarit = c. 1500-1200 B.C. site, excavated since the 1930's by the French.
Ras Ibn Hani is a few km away and has a palace for the royals. Minat al-Beida, the port of Ugarit cannot be visitted, its a military port.
Ugarit was a wealthy site due to trading via the sea and land. Lots of art found here from Cyprus, Egypt, Mesopotamia, and beyond. Also text in various languages.
Ugarit is probably most famous for the texts found in excavations written in a 29 letter, wedge-shaped alphabet. The language was a local script, but it is one of thhe earliest attestations of the alphabet.
The site has a huge palace that was multiple floors, all built in stone, and at least 2 temples plus lots of local residences. Bring good walking shoes as the site is covered in brush and pretty buggy.
Ras Ibn Hani is a few km away and has a palace for the royals. Minat al-Beida, the port of Ugarit cannot be visitted, its a military port.
Ugarit was a wealthy site due to trading via the sea and land. Lots of art found here from Cyprus, Egypt, Mesopotamia, and beyond. Also text in various languages.
Ugarit is probably most famous for the texts found in excavations written in a 29 letter, wedge-shaped alphabet. The language was a local script, but it is one of thhe earliest attestations of the alphabet.
The site has a huge palace that was multiple floors, all built in stone, and at least 2 temples plus lots of local residences. Bring good walking shoes as the site is covered in brush and pretty buggy.
Highlights from Lattakia
E: Seeing Mount Sapanu in the distance from our hotel room. Hellooo Baal.
M: Incredible views approaching our first (of two) Crusader castles - Qala'at Salah ad-Din.
E: Fransisco the rooster. And the rest of Ras Ibn Hani, a site c. 1200 BC across the road from our hotel. A sea-side retreat for the royals of Ugarit, and now the home of chickens. And lots of weeds.
M: The customer is ALWAYS right. Especially when its me. (E would like to note that she got a lot of reading done while M was being "right.")
E: Marching around Ugarit. TWICE. While M carried the backpack. In insane heat.
M: Climbing down into an incredibly well preserved underground tomb in the house of Yabninu at Ugarit. People buried their family members inside their houses at Ugarit. Bunches of tombs here and at Ibn Hani.
E: M realizing the the Arabic word for "hotel" (funduq) has the word fun in it. Cnat count the number of times I have heard "We're having fuuun in the funduq" in the past 4 days. Maybe not a highlight.
M: Finally took a microbus. Got off at the wrong stop. Not taking a microbus again.
E: Lattakia museum. Or not. Tiny, and the guard kept tapping his watch and shaking his keys trying to make me leave so he could go sit back down with his friends. So NOT how a museum should be run.
M: The View. Really trendy new resteraurant overlooking the sea. More nachos made from doritos, and I tried fish and chips.
E: The gate to Ugarit is too amazing for words. Also, I owe big thanks to M who was dumb enough to ask me what my impressions of Ugarit were and then nice enough to let me give him an hour long sermon about the importance and problems of the site and its texts.
M: Giant flying red insect in the cab with us for the entire 1 hr trip back from the castle. As if the ride was not already bad enough from the strong gas fumes.
E: I would just like to add the gas fumes + fear of heights + early morning + crusader castle + summer Syrian heat = whoa. M was way braver than me.
M: Incredible views approaching our first (of two) Crusader castles - Qala'at Salah ad-Din.
E: Fransisco the rooster. And the rest of Ras Ibn Hani, a site c. 1200 BC across the road from our hotel. A sea-side retreat for the royals of Ugarit, and now the home of chickens. And lots of weeds.
M: The customer is ALWAYS right. Especially when its me. (E would like to note that she got a lot of reading done while M was being "right.")
E: Marching around Ugarit. TWICE. While M carried the backpack. In insane heat.
M: Climbing down into an incredibly well preserved underground tomb in the house of Yabninu at Ugarit. People buried their family members inside their houses at Ugarit. Bunches of tombs here and at Ibn Hani.
E: M realizing the the Arabic word for "hotel" (funduq) has the word fun in it. Cnat count the number of times I have heard "We're having fuuun in the funduq" in the past 4 days. Maybe not a highlight.
M: Finally took a microbus. Got off at the wrong stop. Not taking a microbus again.
E: Lattakia museum. Or not. Tiny, and the guard kept tapping his watch and shaking his keys trying to make me leave so he could go sit back down with his friends. So NOT how a museum should be run.
M: The View. Really trendy new resteraurant overlooking the sea. More nachos made from doritos, and I tried fish and chips.
E: The gate to Ugarit is too amazing for words. Also, I owe big thanks to M who was dumb enough to ask me what my impressions of Ugarit were and then nice enough to let me give him an hour long sermon about the importance and problems of the site and its texts.
M: Giant flying red insect in the cab with us for the entire 1 hr trip back from the castle. As if the ride was not already bad enough from the strong gas fumes.
E: I would just like to add the gas fumes + fear of heights + early morning + crusader castle + summer Syrian heat = whoa. M was way braver than me.
Lights out in Lattakia
Apparently faulty electricity is not just a feature of Aleppian life. Lights are in and out in Lattakia hotel tonight as well. Probably because the hotel is booked. Just a reminder that we are still in a country that is under going massive construction and modernization - with some successes and some failures.
Syria : 3, M : 0
M ate mixed meat (deep fried) our last night in Aleppo. Syria wins another round; took M 4 days to recover. (Syria has also won several rounds with E, for those keeping score.) Looking forward to overeating food back in the States and being sick again.
In spite of the illness, we highly recommend the Yasmeen Hotel in the Al Jdeida quarter of Aleppo for dinner - small space, open courtyard, good music, and good food. Just dont mix the meat.
PS. The hotel (Yasmeen) also looks like it has lovely, but $$$ rooms.
PPS. M is better now.
In spite of the illness, we highly recommend the Yasmeen Hotel in the Al Jdeida quarter of Aleppo for dinner - small space, open courtyard, good music, and good food. Just dont mix the meat.
PS. The hotel (Yasmeen) also looks like it has lovely, but $$$ rooms.
PPS. M is better now.
Catching up
After a week of anti-blog, we're catching up.
It goes soemthing like this:
Mike sick in Aleppo, final trip(s) to museum.
Train to Lattakia, drive up to Kassab.
2 nights in Kassab, back to Lattakia.
We're on our last of 4 nights in Lattakia.
Tomorrow we go to Tartus.
For map geeks like E - we're talking about the coast of Syria - Kassab on the border with Turkey, Tartus near the Lebanon border.
It goes soemthing like this:
Mike sick in Aleppo, final trip(s) to museum.
Train to Lattakia, drive up to Kassab.
2 nights in Kassab, back to Lattakia.
We're on our last of 4 nights in Lattakia.
Tomorrow we go to Tartus.
For map geeks like E - we're talking about the coast of Syria - Kassab on the border with Turkey, Tartus near the Lebanon border.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Kassab
Added Kassab to the itinerary. Small mountain resort in NW Syria. Just meters away from the border with Turkey.
Sleeping and Eating (M's two favorite things)
The very cheap Al-Mouktar hotel included a bathroom off the porch that smelled like chemicals, so we both skipped showers for 2 days. Views from the Hotel Namar resteraunt were really nice, food a little less memorable.
Out and About:
The taxi driver for our trip to beach and later to Lattakia took us at high speeds over hills, around corners and from one lane to another. Terror ride for M and E. Al-Samara (a beach near Kassab where the mountains plunge into the Mediterranean) was amazing, a great spot for picnics that starts filling up with locals between 1-2 pm.
Disappointments:
Sadly, E didn't realize until arrival at Lattakia that the mountain we were staying on, Jebl Acra (sp?), was Mount Sapanu (Biblical Saphon) the mythical home of the Ugaritic weather god Baal.
Population game:
Kassab is supposed to be a much-loved mountain retreat for Syrians. We found a rather deserted town and judging by the number of apt lights on at night, a lot of home owners in Kassab are part-time residents. E compares it to Pentwater, MI: a great place to vacay with some nice scenery but its better when you're staying at gramma's and getting home cooked food.
Sleeping and Eating (M's two favorite things)
The very cheap Al-Mouktar hotel included a bathroom off the porch that smelled like chemicals, so we both skipped showers for 2 days. Views from the Hotel Namar resteraunt were really nice, food a little less memorable.
Out and About:
The taxi driver for our trip to beach and later to Lattakia took us at high speeds over hills, around corners and from one lane to another. Terror ride for M and E. Al-Samara (a beach near Kassab where the mountains plunge into the Mediterranean) was amazing, a great spot for picnics that starts filling up with locals between 1-2 pm.
Disappointments:
Sadly, E didn't realize until arrival at Lattakia that the mountain we were staying on, Jebl Acra (sp?), was Mount Sapanu (Biblical Saphon) the mythical home of the Ugaritic weather god Baal.
Population game:
Kassab is supposed to be a much-loved mountain retreat for Syrians. We found a rather deserted town and judging by the number of apt lights on at night, a lot of home owners in Kassab are part-time residents. E compares it to Pentwater, MI: a great place to vacay with some nice scenery but its better when you're staying at gramma's and getting home cooked food.
Syria : 2, M : 0
M got "summer influenza" at Ebla. That's one more for Syria. Best part? When the doctor who came to the hotel put a stethoscope on Mike's chest and said "inspiration... expiration."
For the curious, cost of care in Aleppo:
1 doctor visit to hotel - $30
3 visits from a nurse for shots of antibiotics - $9
1 trip to the pharmacy for 2 different medications, syringes, and vitamins - $18
Also, M feeling better.
For the curious, cost of care in Aleppo:
1 doctor visit to hotel - $30
3 visits from a nurse for shots of antibiotics - $9
1 trip to the pharmacy for 2 different medications, syringes, and vitamins - $18
Also, M feeling better.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
Bak-SHISH
We ran into a bunch of children at Elba this morning who kept coming up to us and saying "Bakshish? Bakshish." Confused, we said goodbye and kept going.
It got worse later, with a group of boys following us all around the backside of the tell Yelling "Bak-SHEEESH!" Boys 200m away would scream "Bak-SHI-ASH!" from the other end of the tell as well. They especially loved harassing M.
Our driver says "Backshish" means "money" or "tip."
It got worse later, with a group of boys following us all around the backside of the tell Yelling "Bak-SHEEESH!" Boys 200m away would scream "Bak-SHI-ASH!" from the other end of the tell as well. They especially loved harassing M.
Our driver says "Backshish" means "money" or "tip."
Experiment
E noticing that women in Aleppo dont smile. With a couple of wonderful exceptions, most women look the other way or stare without smiling.
M hypothesisized that women who were dressed more liberally would be more likely to smile then those in the very traditional and conservative dress. Thus far (experiment ongoing), not true.
Thoughts?
M hypothesisized that women who were dressed more liberally would be more likely to smile then those in the very traditional and conservative dress. Thus far (experiment ongoing), not true.
Thoughts?
Barak Hussein Obama
According to a Catholic shop owner in the old city, the American president is Muslim, knows the Koran by heart, and American is no longer a Christian country.
We eventually gave up trying to argue with this man, but checked in later with a shopkeeper named Dmitri. Dmitri says that everyone here knows the presidents middle name and is waiting and watching to see how relations with the Middle East will change.
PS. Shop owner #1 is waiting to visit his sister in NJ until we have a different president.
We eventually gave up trying to argue with this man, but checked in later with a shopkeeper named Dmitri. Dmitri says that everyone here knows the presidents middle name and is waiting and watching to see how relations with the Middle East will change.
PS. Shop owner #1 is waiting to visit his sister in NJ until we have a different president.
Emar and Ebla
The past three days have taken us to Emar, Ebla, and the regional city Idlib.
Emar:
Imar/Emar is an ancient site (3rd and 2nd millenniums BC). Roman and Islamic ruins here also. The ancient sites WERE located on the W bank of the Euphrates, but thanks to a dam project by the previous president in the 70's, most of the site now lies under Lake Al Assad.
We went to see:
1. The acropolis with temples to the storm god (probably Baal) and Ashtart(?), the "western" version of the Mesopotamian goddess Ishtar. The temples make a great pair with a procession-way between them leading to the edge of the acropolis. We were lucky enough to visit around 5pm when the sun was setting and it is very clear that the procession way lines right up with the setting sun. Temples badly destroyed but enough left to get E excited.
2. Parts of the lower city, still high enough up the hill to be above-water. Emar is exciting because when the French conducted excavations in the 70's (quickly, before the dam was built) they claimed the site was only from c. 1400-1200 BC, even though texts from around Syria mention an Imar/Emar from c. 1800 BC and earlier. In the past ten years, Syrian and German excavation teams have gone back and found the older city below the French team's Emar. So we got to check out some of the older layers of the cite.
3. The palace. OK, we didnt really see the palace, because the hill it was on is now an insland in Lake Assad. But we here it is now the home of a thriving rabbit colony and even some snakes.
4. Lake Assad. The director of the Islamic excavations was nice enough to take us around the site and claims that the waters of Lake Assad are swimmable and even drinkable. We waded. E and M have now officially been in the Euphrates. And the water is fantastic.
5. Archaeological debris. M thought he saw a small skull and bones down in a pit, but now admits that he was letting his archaeological imagination run wild.
Ebla:
Ebla could be called the earliest "big city" in Syria. It has tons of texts, art objects, palaces, temples, stairs, fortifications, and goes back to c. 2400 BC. Sadly, there is no running around in the ancient buildings, but the Italian excavators have the site pretty well labelled with paths to follow and three different "tours." Many buildings, many local children running around, many good views, and many restorations. 30 km away, the city Idlib has a museum with some of the find from Ebla. The old museum, which used to be right outside the ruins, is no more.
Emar:
Imar/Emar is an ancient site (3rd and 2nd millenniums BC). Roman and Islamic ruins here also. The ancient sites WERE located on the W bank of the Euphrates, but thanks to a dam project by the previous president in the 70's, most of the site now lies under Lake Al Assad.
We went to see:
1. The acropolis with temples to the storm god (probably Baal) and Ashtart(?), the "western" version of the Mesopotamian goddess Ishtar. The temples make a great pair with a procession-way between them leading to the edge of the acropolis. We were lucky enough to visit around 5pm when the sun was setting and it is very clear that the procession way lines right up with the setting sun. Temples badly destroyed but enough left to get E excited.
2. Parts of the lower city, still high enough up the hill to be above-water. Emar is exciting because when the French conducted excavations in the 70's (quickly, before the dam was built) they claimed the site was only from c. 1400-1200 BC, even though texts from around Syria mention an Imar/Emar from c. 1800 BC and earlier. In the past ten years, Syrian and German excavation teams have gone back and found the older city below the French team's Emar. So we got to check out some of the older layers of the cite.
3. The palace. OK, we didnt really see the palace, because the hill it was on is now an insland in Lake Assad. But we here it is now the home of a thriving rabbit colony and even some snakes.
4. Lake Assad. The director of the Islamic excavations was nice enough to take us around the site and claims that the waters of Lake Assad are swimmable and even drinkable. We waded. E and M have now officially been in the Euphrates. And the water is fantastic.
5. Archaeological debris. M thought he saw a small skull and bones down in a pit, but now admits that he was letting his archaeological imagination run wild.
Ebla:
Ebla could be called the earliest "big city" in Syria. It has tons of texts, art objects, palaces, temples, stairs, fortifications, and goes back to c. 2400 BC. Sadly, there is no running around in the ancient buildings, but the Italian excavators have the site pretty well labelled with paths to follow and three different "tours." Many buildings, many local children running around, many good views, and many restorations. 30 km away, the city Idlib has a museum with some of the find from Ebla. The old museum, which used to be right outside the ruins, is no more.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
Aleppan Cuisine- Emerald Restaurant
Last night we finally found some authentic Aleppan cuisine.
In M's opinion, Emerald (a new restaurant located on the same street as the Tourath Hotel)offers a much better taste of Aleppo than the widely acclaimed Beit Sissi. Not only was it tasty, but the atmosphere of the restaurant (in the courtyard of an old house with a fountain in the center) was very relaxing.
M ordered:
Mouhamara- a mix of walnuts, pomegranate molasses, toasted bread crumbs, olive oil, roasted peppers and spices
Sujok-sausage rolled in arabic bread and cut into small pieces
Cherry kebab- a lamb kebab drenched in a cherry sauce
M's favorite was the sojuk. The cherry kebab was certainly unique and flavorful, but the sauce was a bit much after the first few bites. (Would love to see a restaurateur in Traverse City whip up a version of this!)
Emerald also has a really nice pub upstairs which M really likes because it has karaoke on Sunday and Thursday nights (Arabic and English)! M hopes to swing by to see if "Like a Prayer", "Toxic" and "Gin and Juice" have made it to Syria.
In M's opinion, Emerald (a new restaurant located on the same street as the Tourath Hotel)offers a much better taste of Aleppo than the widely acclaimed Beit Sissi. Not only was it tasty, but the atmosphere of the restaurant (in the courtyard of an old house with a fountain in the center) was very relaxing.
M ordered:
Mouhamara- a mix of walnuts, pomegranate molasses, toasted bread crumbs, olive oil, roasted peppers and spices
Sujok-sausage rolled in arabic bread and cut into small pieces
Cherry kebab- a lamb kebab drenched in a cherry sauce
M's favorite was the sojuk. The cherry kebab was certainly unique and flavorful, but the sauce was a bit much after the first few bites. (Would love to see a restaurateur in Traverse City whip up a version of this!)
Emerald also has a really nice pub upstairs which M really likes because it has karaoke on Sunday and Thursday nights (Arabic and English)! M hopes to swing by to see if "Like a Prayer", "Toxic" and "Gin and Juice" have made it to Syria.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Aleppo Citadel
Super impressed with Aleppo's citadel.
In brief:
In the Old City, on a huge mound raising 15 meters above the rest of the city.
Remains of earlier occupation (2 lion sculptures from 1st millennium BC) found, but unlikely that these levels with ever be excavated.
Most remains from 12th-15th centures AD.
Prepare for walking (E frustrated with long skirt and sandals).
Inside: views along the walls, the palace, a cavern, 2 mosques, a theater, remains of a men's suana (hamman), and more.
The city inside has multiple levels, expect to get lost going up and down stairs, in and out of entryways.
Cafes in front of the bridge provide shade, E's favorite fruit drinks (order without ice), and a chance for M to work on his nargileh skills (cough cough).
In brief:
In the Old City, on a huge mound raising 15 meters above the rest of the city.
Remains of earlier occupation (2 lion sculptures from 1st millennium BC) found, but unlikely that these levels with ever be excavated.
Most remains from 12th-15th centures AD.
Prepare for walking (E frustrated with long skirt and sandals).
Inside: views along the walls, the palace, a cavern, 2 mosques, a theater, remains of a men's suana (hamman), and more.
The city inside has multiple levels, expect to get lost going up and down stairs, in and out of entryways.
Cafes in front of the bridge provide shade, E's favorite fruit drinks (order without ice), and a chance for M to work on his nargileh skills (cough cough).
Overheard in the souq
Shop owners have mixed up their English a few times while E & M were walking through the souq. Some memorable ones:
"Please come, we have rotten fruit and vegetables.." (meant fresh)
"Won't you come into my shop? We have expensive scarves" (meant cheap)
"We have nasty clothes, come look" (meant nice)
M was also heard shouting "left" "right" or "down" so that E could avoid looking at the carcasses hanging in front of the numerous butcher shops...The lamb heads were too much, even for M.
"Please come, we have rotten fruit and vegetables.." (meant fresh)
"Won't you come into my shop? We have expensive scarves" (meant cheap)
"We have nasty clothes, come look" (meant nice)
M was also heard shouting "left" "right" or "down" so that E could avoid looking at the carcasses hanging in front of the numerous butcher shops...The lamb heads were too much, even for M.
Ain Dara and Qala'at Samaan
Location:
NW of Aleppo, getting close to border with Turkey.
Scenery is beautiful with rolling rocky hills and pine trees and agriculture. Also whole fields of sun flowers.
Sites:
Ain Dara - Neo-Hittite (c. 800 BC) site. Famous for the huge footprints walking into the temple (probably the feet fo the deity, note they only go into the temple). Spent about two hours alone on the tell trying to make sense of the layout of the temple and its architectural decoration (mostly lions and sphinxes). E and M love Ain Dara.
Qala'at Samaam / Saint Simeon - Remains of a cathedral from 5th/6th centuries AD on the top of a rocky hill. Apparently Simeon situated himself atop a pillar NW of Aleppo in the 5th century, soon gathered a following of pilgrims and later (6th century) had a whole religious center and town devoted to his lofty religious teachings. Famous picnic spot, great tiolets (for a fee), ruins were nice, but overloaded with tourists.
NW of Aleppo, getting close to border with Turkey.
Scenery is beautiful with rolling rocky hills and pine trees and agriculture. Also whole fields of sun flowers.
Sites:
Ain Dara - Neo-Hittite (c. 800 BC) site. Famous for the huge footprints walking into the temple (probably the feet fo the deity, note they only go into the temple). Spent about two hours alone on the tell trying to make sense of the layout of the temple and its architectural decoration (mostly lions and sphinxes). E and M love Ain Dara.
Qala'at Samaam / Saint Simeon - Remains of a cathedral from 5th/6th centuries AD on the top of a rocky hill. Apparently Simeon situated himself atop a pillar NW of Aleppo in the 5th century, soon gathered a following of pilgrims and later (6th century) had a whole religious center and town devoted to his lofty religious teachings. Famous picnic spot, great tiolets (for a fee), ruins were nice, but overloaded with tourists.
Shocking News from Aleppo
E electrocuted herself trying to turn the lamp on at 6.30 am.
Also almost fell into a tomb at Qala'at Samaan.
PS. No noticable difference in energy level post-electrocution. haha.
Also almost fell into a tomb at Qala'at Samaan.
PS. No noticable difference in energy level post-electrocution. haha.
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Sleeping in history
Staying in the Baron Hotel. Agatha Christie stayed here. So did T. E. Lawrence. It used to be the hotel of hotels. USED to be.
Now the Baron experience includes:
vestiges of its more glorious past (bar with leather chairs!)
tourists that come only to photograph, not to sleep.
a ghost-y-looking 3rd floor with a crib in the balcony.
huge modern tubs in the remodelled bathrooms.
cracks in the 15' tall ceiling.
an AC unit with japanese instructions.
old keys that barely open the doors.
and according to Lonely Planet a "woeful breakfast" (we didnt think it was that bad).
We're supposed to be staying in T. E. Lawrence's room, but we think its a hoax.
A few streets over, E's Professor is staying in the newly-built Sheraton hotel. Digging for the development of the property uncovered part of Aleppo's ancient city wall. Its now on display below the hotel, and the only part of the wall that is uncovered.
Now the Baron experience includes:
vestiges of its more glorious past (bar with leather chairs!)
tourists that come only to photograph, not to sleep.
a ghost-y-looking 3rd floor with a crib in the balcony.
huge modern tubs in the remodelled bathrooms.
cracks in the 15' tall ceiling.
an AC unit with japanese instructions.
old keys that barely open the doors.
and according to Lonely Planet a "woeful breakfast" (we didnt think it was that bad).
We're supposed to be staying in T. E. Lawrence's room, but we think its a hoax.
A few streets over, E's Professor is staying in the newly-built Sheraton hotel. Digging for the development of the property uncovered part of Aleppo's ancient city wall. Its now on display below the hotel, and the only part of the wall that is uncovered.
Squeaky shoes
We took the train from Deir es-Zor to Aleppo. A 4.5 hour journey beginning at 7am.
Nice view, but the sounds were more memorable than the sights. The family in front of us (6 children?? more??) had a 2 year old with squeaky sandals. Think of the noise of a dog toy. Everytime the child stepped. And then imagine a father encouraging his child to jump up and down and run the length of the train car. OVER and OVER again.
Equally remarkable - the parents survived the trip without incurring the wrath of fellow passengers.
Syrians LOVE children. And squeaky shoes???
Nice view, but the sounds were more memorable than the sights. The family in front of us (6 children?? more??) had a 2 year old with squeaky sandals. Think of the noise of a dog toy. Everytime the child stepped. And then imagine a father encouraging his child to jump up and down and run the length of the train car. OVER and OVER again.
Equally remarkable - the parents survived the trip without incurring the wrath of fellow passengers.
Syrians LOVE children. And squeaky shoes???
Halabiya. Or: A Bug's Life.
Halabiya. 45 mins. N of Deir es-Zor along Euphrates.
Main remains are the walls of Justinian, going up a mountain.
Travellers be warned:
-Mosquitos, mosquitos, mosquitos. Hopefully not carrying malaria. E survived with a bandana across her nose and mouth and sunglasses and high powered bug spray. M struggled.
-Love of climbing required. The stairs only take you about 1/2 way up and then its very steep - mix of rock, pebbles and dirt. Mosquitos deterred us from going more than 3/4 but we hear the view at the top is sensational.
-Dont miss the wooden bridge (for cars!) about 500 meters north.
Main remains are the walls of Justinian, going up a mountain.
Travellers be warned:
-Mosquitos, mosquitos, mosquitos. Hopefully not carrying malaria. E survived with a bandana across her nose and mouth and sunglasses and high powered bug spray. M struggled.
-Love of climbing required. The stairs only take you about 1/2 way up and then its very steep - mix of rock, pebbles and dirt. Mosquitos deterred us from going more than 3/4 but we hear the view at the top is sensational.
-Dont miss the wooden bridge (for cars!) about 500 meters north.
Dura Europos
Not E's specialty, but still interesting to wander.
Saw the synagogue, early church, and Bel temple from 2nd and 3rd centuries AD.
Located on a cliff overlooking the Euphrates - the land below is agricultural, Dura Europos is desert.
Vast space with amazing view of the Euphrates along the W and N edges of the site.
City walls remarkably intact and fun to wander.
The site could take a whole half day, we RAN to almost every edge in 1.5 hours.
Sand blowing everywhere. Sand in our eyes and stuck to our teeth. Mid-day heat intense and there is little shade from the sun.
Highly recommended, but go prepared.
Saw the synagogue, early church, and Bel temple from 2nd and 3rd centuries AD.
Located on a cliff overlooking the Euphrates - the land below is agricultural, Dura Europos is desert.
Vast space with amazing view of the Euphrates along the W and N edges of the site.
City walls remarkably intact and fun to wander.
The site could take a whole half day, we RAN to almost every edge in 1.5 hours.
Sand blowing everywhere. Sand in our eyes and stuck to our teeth. Mid-day heat intense and there is little shade from the sun.
Highly recommended, but go prepared.
Mari
Location:
Euphrates river, Syria. Upstream from ancient Babylon. Location on the river is ideal for trade.
Historical overview:
c. 2400 BC - Finds from Mari (lapis lazuli, gold, and more) show that Mari was part of the earliest trade networks in ancient Mesopotamia. Later "shakkanaku" rulers at Mari.
c. 1800 BC - Mari ruled by Amorite kings who all had "Lim" in their name. Yahdun Lim is killed by a northern king named Shamshi-Adad who installs his son as a ruler at Mari. The purported son of Yahdun-Lim, Zimri-Lim, escapes to the West (probably Aleppo!), returns and takes back the throne. After a decade of rule, Mari is sacked by the famous Hamhurabi of Babylon. Mari never regains prominence.
Archaeology:
Excavations since before WWII have uncovered a massive number of artifacts as well as the palace of Zimri-Lim and beneath that, the earlier 3rd millennium palace.
Some favorite/famous finds:
-c. 15,000 tablets. Letters, administrative texts, rituals, and more. There are clay models of livers for omen reading and texts describing local battles and political relations.
-Bread molds with designs of leaping animals, naked women, and more. Imagine eating that.
-Mari water goddess. Famous across the country (see separate post).
-Votive offerings by the dozens from temples.
-Bronze hollow-cast lion guarding a door of the temple (c. 3 feet remain).
The site / palace:
-All built of clay/mud bricks.
-Winding hallways and rooms (over 100 rooms in Zimri-Lim's palace).
-Remaining walls up to 15' high and 5-6' wide. The walls were originally painted with various scenes.
Impressions:
-E an M got lost trying to figure out what was what with only mounds of mud remaining and multiple levels of the architecture exposed. Site is not labelled and you need to buy a map ahead of time.
-Wild dogs nearby. Um, help.
-Blown away by the enormosity of the early palace. Definitely a "rat in the maze" feeling.
Euphrates river, Syria. Upstream from ancient Babylon. Location on the river is ideal for trade.
Historical overview:
c. 2400 BC - Finds from Mari (lapis lazuli, gold, and more) show that Mari was part of the earliest trade networks in ancient Mesopotamia. Later "shakkanaku" rulers at Mari.
c. 1800 BC - Mari ruled by Amorite kings who all had "Lim" in their name. Yahdun Lim is killed by a northern king named Shamshi-Adad who installs his son as a ruler at Mari. The purported son of Yahdun-Lim, Zimri-Lim, escapes to the West (probably Aleppo!), returns and takes back the throne. After a decade of rule, Mari is sacked by the famous Hamhurabi of Babylon. Mari never regains prominence.
Archaeology:
Excavations since before WWII have uncovered a massive number of artifacts as well as the palace of Zimri-Lim and beneath that, the earlier 3rd millennium palace.
Some favorite/famous finds:
-c. 15,000 tablets. Letters, administrative texts, rituals, and more. There are clay models of livers for omen reading and texts describing local battles and political relations.
-Bread molds with designs of leaping animals, naked women, and more. Imagine eating that.
-Mari water goddess. Famous across the country (see separate post).
-Votive offerings by the dozens from temples.
-Bronze hollow-cast lion guarding a door of the temple (c. 3 feet remain).
The site / palace:
-All built of clay/mud bricks.
-Winding hallways and rooms (over 100 rooms in Zimri-Lim's palace).
-Remaining walls up to 15' high and 5-6' wide. The walls were originally painted with various scenes.
Impressions:
-E an M got lost trying to figure out what was what with only mounds of mud remaining and multiple levels of the architecture exposed. Site is not labelled and you need to buy a map ahead of time.
-Wild dogs nearby. Um, help.
-Blown away by the enormosity of the early palace. Definitely a "rat in the maze" feeling.
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Boom goes the dynamite
Walking to the pedestrian bridge tonight with Mazen, a new friend, when we hear an explosion.
Lots of smoke is in the air. From the bridge, we can see two pieces of wood burning on the land below, along the Euphrates.
Mazen tells us that the sound is used to fish. "Bomb in water, fish float." (Whats on the dinner menu?) As we get closer he says it appears to be an accident.
One of the fires looks like a boat on an island in the river.
Later young boys tell M a scene for a movie is being filmed.
We have no idea what to believe, vote for your favorite:
(A) Fisherman's bomb exploded, sending boat into the air, leaving fire, mass smoke, and possible dead bodies and fish in the Euphrates.
(B) Movie scene, nothing out of the ordinary.
(C) Movie scene, but they REALLY DO fish with bombs.
(D) Create your own story.
Lots of smoke is in the air. From the bridge, we can see two pieces of wood burning on the land below, along the Euphrates.
Mazen tells us that the sound is used to fish. "Bomb in water, fish float." (Whats on the dinner menu?) As we get closer he says it appears to be an accident.
One of the fires looks like a boat on an island in the river.
Later young boys tell M a scene for a movie is being filmed.
We have no idea what to believe, vote for your favorite:
(A) Fisherman's bomb exploded, sending boat into the air, leaving fire, mass smoke, and possible dead bodies and fish in the Euphrates.
(B) Movie scene, nothing out of the ordinary.
(C) Movie scene, but they REALLY DO fish with bombs.
(D) Create your own story.
Deir es-Zor
Good food is lacking, flies are many, but the people have been wonderful,very friendly and engaging. Two blondes stick out in everywhere in Syria, but here we get greeting, requests for photos, emails, and lengthy conversations. Some of our favorites:
Two brothers and a girlfriend asking us to join them in a cafe on Friday. Discussed cultural norms here and in America among young people.
The museum guard asking M why we dont have a baby and pointing to all the objects and saying "be-catalogue" (in the museum catalogue).
A group of 8 girls and women on the bridge teaching us bits of Arabic, giggling, and spending their evening with us. One even kissed E's cheek for a photo and kept saying "taqburni, I love you!"
A law student helping us find the train ticket office then buying us ice cream and talking with M as we walked up and down the pedestrian bridge over the Euphrates.
An English student on the bridge wanting to practice his English and learn more about American accents (E demonstrated good midwest accent, M said "I pahked my cah in Hahvahd yahd"). Poor guy is probably SO confused now.
A young girl on the bridge waving shyly and saying "hello." Parents smiling. E's biological clock kicking in (just for a second).
Young boys having fun with M's total lack of arabic skills.
Two brothers and a girlfriend asking us to join them in a cafe on Friday. Discussed cultural norms here and in America among young people.
The museum guard asking M why we dont have a baby and pointing to all the objects and saying "be-catalogue" (in the museum catalogue).
A group of 8 girls and women on the bridge teaching us bits of Arabic, giggling, and spending their evening with us. One even kissed E's cheek for a photo and kept saying "taqburni, I love you!"
A law student helping us find the train ticket office then buying us ice cream and talking with M as we walked up and down the pedestrian bridge over the Euphrates.
An English student on the bridge wanting to practice his English and learn more about American accents (E demonstrated good midwest accent, M said "I pahked my cah in Hahvahd yahd"). Poor guy is probably SO confused now.
A young girl on the bridge waving shyly and saying "hello." Parents smiling. E's biological clock kicking in (just for a second).
Young boys having fun with M's total lack of arabic skills.
Shout-out to G-ma
In the humble state of Michigan, many years ago, E's Protestant gramma married her Jewish high school sweetheart.
Today we saw Dura Europos. The 2nd / 3rd century AD site along the Euphrates river in SE Syria. The site is famous for the oldest synagogue discovered and was found with intact frescoes depicting Biblical scenes.
Just down the street, on the other side of the city's main gate, was a Christian chapel.
Cheers to my grandparents for keeping the spirit of Dura Europos alive. We thought of you today!
Today we saw Dura Europos. The 2nd / 3rd century AD site along the Euphrates river in SE Syria. The site is famous for the oldest synagogue discovered and was found with intact frescoes depicting Biblical scenes.
Just down the street, on the other side of the city's main gate, was a Christian chapel.
Cheers to my grandparents for keeping the spirit of Dura Europos alive. We thought of you today!
Traveller's Alert*: Iran
Met an Austrailian couple in Palmyra. They say traveling in Iran is wonderful and the people are VERY welcoming and happy to see travellers and speak with them.
Hooray for world peace.
Add Iran to the list.
We are adding "Travller's Alert" for anyone who comes across this blog that is planning travel to the Middle East and Syria especially.
Hooray for world peace.
Add Iran to the list.
We are adding "Travller's Alert" for anyone who comes across this blog that is planning travel to the Middle East and Syria especially.
Google map-alicious
Finally got into google maps.
Follow the links for satellite views of our places over the past week:
Palmyra
Qadesh and Qatna
Deir es-Zor (with Mari, Dura Europos, and Halabiye)
Follow the links for satellite views of our places over the past week:
Palmyra
Qadesh and Qatna
Deir es-Zor (with Mari, Dura Europos, and Halabiye)
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Recipe for a successful Kadmous experience
Kadmous = bus from Palmyra to Deir es-Zor.
1 bad batch of spaghetti the night before travel (spaghetti shoudl be safe, right?!?)
1 morning in the bathroom (stomach hurts sooo much)
1 immodium (+other medication for sleeping)
1 hot desert day
1 taxi ride to station with driver who is trying to tell you alternative (more expensive) ways to travel
1 45 minute wait in a station with many flies (and a meat carcass)
1 terrifying trip to the bathroom (= hole in the ground)
40 other Syrian passengers staring at the only Western travellers (clearly confused and in the way)
2 large back that have to go under the bus (this means forfeiting the spot at the front of the line and boarding LAST)
1 2.5 hour ride (thank g*d for air con)
1 interrogation at police station upon arrival
1 rush to get the bags before the bus departs again
All said and done, we are now in Deir es-Zor. E is eating bread and peanut butter.
1 bad batch of spaghetti the night before travel (spaghetti shoudl be safe, right?!?)
1 morning in the bathroom (stomach hurts sooo much)
1 immodium (+other medication for sleeping)
1 hot desert day
1 taxi ride to station with driver who is trying to tell you alternative (more expensive) ways to travel
1 45 minute wait in a station with many flies (and a meat carcass)
1 terrifying trip to the bathroom (= hole in the ground)
40 other Syrian passengers staring at the only Western travellers (clearly confused and in the way)
2 large back that have to go under the bus (this means forfeiting the spot at the front of the line and boarding LAST)
1 2.5 hour ride (thank g*d for air con)
1 interrogation at police station upon arrival
1 rush to get the bags before the bus departs again
All said and done, we are now in Deir es-Zor. E is eating bread and peanut butter.
Locals at Palmyra
This post is from E.
One of the saddest things I have ever seen.
Two tourist women atop a camel being led through the ruined collonade by a small boy singing Arabic songs. The singing was obviously meant to be part of the experience, but what child should have to sing for money? Music for me has always been very personal, and to see it being so depersonalized for such a young child is a strong reminder of the affect of Western tourism and Western money on the local economy and community.
Could post more examples of seeming changes in local community based due to excessive tourism, but will leave it here.
One of the saddest things I have ever seen.
Two tourist women atop a camel being led through the ruined collonade by a small boy singing Arabic songs. The singing was obviously meant to be part of the experience, but what child should have to sing for money? Music for me has always been very personal, and to see it being so depersonalized for such a young child is a strong reminder of the affect of Western tourism and Western money on the local economy and community.
Could post more examples of seeming changes in local community based due to excessive tourism, but will leave it here.
Palmyra
So much to say, so little space/time.
Top 5 favorite (or not) moments:
(1) 5am visit to Diocletian's camp / Zenobia palace. Its on the edge of the ruins. And behind the building are stairs going up into the one remaining tower and a tomb cut into a cave. Amazing view from the tower (c. 15 feet high).
(2) The necropolis. An area full of tombs behind the ancient site. Tower tombs, house tombs, tombs cut into caves. Counted at least 50. Ruins felt untouched and many open for wandering. Did we mention we were the only people there? (6.30am long walk worth it.)
(3) The smell of the Ishtar Hotel's bathroom. yucky.
(4) Sunset from the citadel. Overlooking the ruins (facing East). Realized at the last moment that behind the citadel has an ever MORE amazing view of the sun setting in the desert mountains. Applause from many tourist as the sun dissapeared.
(5) The blisters. Why didn't we buy good walking shoes?
(6) Ruins overall: peaceful in the early am and late pm. Very untouched, pretty well preserved. Major contrast to what you see in Rome. Very authentic feeling. Highly recommended.
(7) Resteraunt selling point: (owner pointing to two people walking on street) "They ate here last night and didnt get sick."
(8) Camel noises. haha.
(9) Kittens on the terrace. Hungry for you dinner. Will moew, will circle the table, will congrate, will jump up on the seat and try to lick your knife. Soooo cute. And yet so diseased.
(10) Bel temple. Again, for the best Roman(esque) architecture, go to Palmyra. Even with a tourist group inside it is not crowded. M posing as sacrifical (sweaty) lamb by altar = major highlight.
SEE PALMYRA HERE
Top 5 favorite (or not) moments:
(1) 5am visit to Diocletian's camp / Zenobia palace. Its on the edge of the ruins. And behind the building are stairs going up into the one remaining tower and a tomb cut into a cave. Amazing view from the tower (c. 15 feet high).
(2) The necropolis. An area full of tombs behind the ancient site. Tower tombs, house tombs, tombs cut into caves. Counted at least 50. Ruins felt untouched and many open for wandering. Did we mention we were the only people there? (6.30am long walk worth it.)
(3) The smell of the Ishtar Hotel's bathroom. yucky.
(4) Sunset from the citadel. Overlooking the ruins (facing East). Realized at the last moment that behind the citadel has an ever MORE amazing view of the sun setting in the desert mountains. Applause from many tourist as the sun dissapeared.
(5) The blisters. Why didn't we buy good walking shoes?
(6) Ruins overall: peaceful in the early am and late pm. Very untouched, pretty well preserved. Major contrast to what you see in Rome. Very authentic feeling. Highly recommended.
(7) Resteraunt selling point: (owner pointing to two people walking on street) "They ate here last night and didnt get sick."
(8) Camel noises. haha.
(9) Kittens on the terrace. Hungry for you dinner. Will moew, will circle the table, will congrate, will jump up on the seat and try to lick your knife. Soooo cute. And yet so diseased.
(10) Bel temple. Again, for the best Roman(esque) architecture, go to Palmyra. Even with a tourist group inside it is not crowded. M posing as sacrifical (sweaty) lamb by altar = major highlight.
SEE PALMYRA HERE
Qadesh and Qatna
Qadesh = Tell Nebi Mend / Nebi Mendo
Qadesh Highlights:
E - Orontes river: Ramses claims the Hittite drowned trying to swim across the river when retreating. Today, the river is hardly more than a meandering stream.
M - Visions of movie battles dance through head (Think Troy, 300). Later realizes battle in 1200 BC isn't so epic or well organized.
E - The MOUND. According to records of the battle, the army opposing Ramses camped behind the city. The mound is big enough and high enough to theoretically hide a large group of soldiers behind. A whole army???
M - The wind. Near Homs is the only break in the mountains that run N-S along the coast of Syria and Lebanon. This "Homs gap" is famous for the strong wind, and we definatley felt it. E wished she had bought a hat with a strap.
Directions from Damascus:
Drive twoards Homs
Take the turn off before Homs for Al Qusayr
Arriving in Al Qusayr, ask directions for Nebi Mend(o)
Nebi Mendo is about a 4km drive past Al Qusayr
You will pass the Orontes river and see in the distance a tell rising above the rest of the land.
There is a small village covering part of the ancient mound
You can drive up on the mound and wander for the scenery / view of the land
Qatna Highlights:
M and E - First excavated tell!! (Fun to wander, not well labelled.)
M - The ramparts from the distance. The city ramparts surround a 100 hectare site, in a square. Atop these ramparts (large hills now), views of the entire site are possible. Also, the inside of the site lies c. 10 meters below the top of these hills. Felt like we were inside a crater.
E - Multiple occupation layers. Ancient city rebuilt several times. More recent ruins as well. Also, sites are excavated in grids where small squares of space are excavated. This means you have to be able to see the difference between the walls of the excavations and the ancient walls of rooms and buildings. E's archaeological eyes need more training.
M - Saw 2 bones aying near the more recent ruins. Got hungry.
E - Sheep grazing in the far corner fo the tell. baaaa. (M saw dog in distance, got scared (re-occuring theme).)
Directions from Homs:
Take the raod towards Salamiyya
Go to Mishrife (on the road to Salamiyya)
Ignore the sign that says ancient tell
Take the first major left after the sign for the tell
Entrance for site at the end of the road
(There is a visitor's sign in around the corner from the entrance)
SEE QADESH AND QATNA HERE
Qadesh Highlights:
E - Orontes river: Ramses claims the Hittite drowned trying to swim across the river when retreating. Today, the river is hardly more than a meandering stream.
M - Visions of movie battles dance through head (Think Troy, 300). Later realizes battle in 1200 BC isn't so epic or well organized.
E - The MOUND. According to records of the battle, the army opposing Ramses camped behind the city. The mound is big enough and high enough to theoretically hide a large group of soldiers behind. A whole army???
M - The wind. Near Homs is the only break in the mountains that run N-S along the coast of Syria and Lebanon. This "Homs gap" is famous for the strong wind, and we definatley felt it. E wished she had bought a hat with a strap.
Directions from Damascus:
Drive twoards Homs
Take the turn off before Homs for Al Qusayr
Arriving in Al Qusayr, ask directions for Nebi Mend(o)
Nebi Mendo is about a 4km drive past Al Qusayr
You will pass the Orontes river and see in the distance a tell rising above the rest of the land.
There is a small village covering part of the ancient mound
You can drive up on the mound and wander for the scenery / view of the land
Qatna Highlights:
M and E - First excavated tell!! (Fun to wander, not well labelled.)
M - The ramparts from the distance. The city ramparts surround a 100 hectare site, in a square. Atop these ramparts (large hills now), views of the entire site are possible. Also, the inside of the site lies c. 10 meters below the top of these hills. Felt like we were inside a crater.
E - Multiple occupation layers. Ancient city rebuilt several times. More recent ruins as well. Also, sites are excavated in grids where small squares of space are excavated. This means you have to be able to see the difference between the walls of the excavations and the ancient walls of rooms and buildings. E's archaeological eyes need more training.
M - Saw 2 bones aying near the more recent ruins. Got hungry.
E - Sheep grazing in the far corner fo the tell. baaaa. (M saw dog in distance, got scared (re-occuring theme).)
Directions from Homs:
Take the raod towards Salamiyya
Go to Mishrife (on the road to Salamiyya)
Ignore the sign that says ancient tell
Take the first major left after the sign for the tell
Entrance for site at the end of the road
(There is a visitor's sign in around the corner from the entrance)
SEE QADESH AND QATNA HERE
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Palmyra
Three days and two early morning sunrises later, we are in Palmyra and back at the computer. Computers here are very slow, so in breif, the past three days:
Monday: Drive from Damascus to Palmyra with stops at the ancient sites Qadesh and Qatna. Qadesh is the site of the best-known battle in the ancient world resulting in the famed "first" international peace treaty (copy of the treaty in the United Nations, NYC). Qatna is a major ancient city, M read it is one of the "up and coming ancient sites" for Syria. We reached both thanks to the heavy foot, patience, fantastic English skills, and relentlessness of our driver Amar.
Amar got us to Palmyra late Monday night.
Tuesday and Wednesday: Palmyra, the most famous tourist destination in Syria. Best known from Roman times, when the Syria queen Zenobia asserted her power across the region. Massive ruins, largely untouched by the modern city. Agora, senate, 2 Bel temples (yes!), collonnade, valley with 50+ tombs, a later citadel overlooking the site, and stones scattered everywhere. Have risen 2 mornings at 4.30am to catch sunrise and the ruins in first light, also saw the sunset from the citadel.
A few comments:
(1) Desert is freezing when the sun is down. Incredible wind as well. Gets hot FAST.
(2) Food options limitted, stiff competition from the many "restaraunts." One owner actually tells people they wont get sick from his food, if that is any indication of the dining quality here.
(3) E expected the local population to be relatively removed from the ancient site and the tourism, but the opposite is true. Stiff competition between taxi drivers, "guides" at the sites, hotel owners, etc. Everyone knows at least a little English (and Italian) and is quite bold (sellers, Bedouin, children, cats on the terrace resteraunt, etc).
(4) Finally, a word on Bedouin transporation. Camel is more of a tourist attraction than a reality these days - we have seen "tricycle" trucks, run down jeeps and gazillions of motorbikes.
All for now, hopefully more later (including map).
Monday: Drive from Damascus to Palmyra with stops at the ancient sites Qadesh and Qatna. Qadesh is the site of the best-known battle in the ancient world resulting in the famed "first" international peace treaty (copy of the treaty in the United Nations, NYC). Qatna is a major ancient city, M read it is one of the "up and coming ancient sites" for Syria. We reached both thanks to the heavy foot, patience, fantastic English skills, and relentlessness of our driver Amar.
Amar got us to Palmyra late Monday night.
Tuesday and Wednesday: Palmyra, the most famous tourist destination in Syria. Best known from Roman times, when the Syria queen Zenobia asserted her power across the region. Massive ruins, largely untouched by the modern city. Agora, senate, 2 Bel temples (yes!), collonnade, valley with 50+ tombs, a later citadel overlooking the site, and stones scattered everywhere. Have risen 2 mornings at 4.30am to catch sunrise and the ruins in first light, also saw the sunset from the citadel.
A few comments:
(1) Desert is freezing when the sun is down. Incredible wind as well. Gets hot FAST.
(2) Food options limitted, stiff competition from the many "restaraunts." One owner actually tells people they wont get sick from his food, if that is any indication of the dining quality here.
(3) E expected the local population to be relatively removed from the ancient site and the tourism, but the opposite is true. Stiff competition between taxi drivers, "guides" at the sites, hotel owners, etc. Everyone knows at least a little English (and Italian) and is quite bold (sellers, Bedouin, children, cats on the terrace resteraunt, etc).
(4) Finally, a word on Bedouin transporation. Camel is more of a tourist attraction than a reality these days - we have seen "tricycle" trucks, run down jeeps and gazillions of motorbikes.
All for now, hopefully more later (including map).
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Damascus National Museum
We spent more time at the Damascus National Museum as E wants to see the ancient objects and understand the history of museums in the non-Western world better.* From the research notebook:
Exhibition standards here are very different from those in the United States: recreations are common (reconstructions, a fake finger with an ancient ring), some cases need updating (a seal upside down, only some objects labeled), and there are indications that the museum needs further funding (light bulbs burned out, a fountain not working, etc).
Access to collections can be limited: a room closed for restoration or chained off, guards watch over the room with the synagogue painting from Dura Europos closely and tell you when to leave, and no photography is allowed. (Having said this, guards told us to go up the stairs to the three floors above and let us in a room closed for restoration.) Access to information is also limited as any given object could have: no label, a label in French and English, or a label in French. I suspect that the French have had a heavy hand in the construction and organization of this museum, particularly the sections on the ancient art and artifacts. For example, the second floor has a new-ish exhibit on the pioneers of Syrian archaeology. The exhibit is heavily based on texts, biographies, and old photographs, with a few of the most important objects found in Syria tucked away in back corners (the statue pair from Qatna and the Ishtar stela - over 4 feet high). Everything is in French.
Ugarit is a highlight sight in Syria for many with an interest in ancient history - and the objects from Ugarit have a prominent place in the National Museum. The Ugarit room is the first room on the right side (upon entry) of the museum and there appear to have been past exhibits devoted to this site. Interestingly, visitors access rooms with objects from Mari and Ebla (which are both older than Ugarit) by going through the Ugarit collection. In other words, there is no chronological organization of the museum based upon history. I have yet to check this out carefully, but the ancient objects appear to be on the same side as the later Islamic objects, while the other end of the museum houses the collections from Palmyra, Dura Europos, and Byzantine periods. One final note - the smallest Ugaritic tablet on display (2'' x 1'') with only two lines of text with the Ugaritic alphabet is proudly displayed and the Ugaritic alphabet is heralded as the ancestor for all modern alphabets. While this claim is basically true, the interest in this piece appears to derive from its discovery in the land that is now Syria, giving the modern state some claim on cultural developments both eastern and western. Very poetic, and possibly polemic. Still trying to decide.
*Highly recommend a visit to the museum. In spite of critiques above, access to so many objects and the quiet, relaxed atmosphere of the museum are hard to beat. Absolutely amazing place, will be excited to follow its development.
Exhibition standards here are very different from those in the United States: recreations are common (reconstructions, a fake finger with an ancient ring), some cases need updating (a seal upside down, only some objects labeled), and there are indications that the museum needs further funding (light bulbs burned out, a fountain not working, etc).
Access to collections can be limited: a room closed for restoration or chained off, guards watch over the room with the synagogue painting from Dura Europos closely and tell you when to leave, and no photography is allowed. (Having said this, guards told us to go up the stairs to the three floors above and let us in a room closed for restoration.) Access to information is also limited as any given object could have: no label, a label in French and English, or a label in French. I suspect that the French have had a heavy hand in the construction and organization of this museum, particularly the sections on the ancient art and artifacts. For example, the second floor has a new-ish exhibit on the pioneers of Syrian archaeology. The exhibit is heavily based on texts, biographies, and old photographs, with a few of the most important objects found in Syria tucked away in back corners (the statue pair from Qatna and the Ishtar stela - over 4 feet high). Everything is in French.
Ugarit is a highlight sight in Syria for many with an interest in ancient history - and the objects from Ugarit have a prominent place in the National Museum. The Ugarit room is the first room on the right side (upon entry) of the museum and there appear to have been past exhibits devoted to this site. Interestingly, visitors access rooms with objects from Mari and Ebla (which are both older than Ugarit) by going through the Ugarit collection. In other words, there is no chronological organization of the museum based upon history. I have yet to check this out carefully, but the ancient objects appear to be on the same side as the later Islamic objects, while the other end of the museum houses the collections from Palmyra, Dura Europos, and Byzantine periods. One final note - the smallest Ugaritic tablet on display (2'' x 1'') with only two lines of text with the Ugaritic alphabet is proudly displayed and the Ugaritic alphabet is heralded as the ancestor for all modern alphabets. While this claim is basically true, the interest in this piece appears to derive from its discovery in the land that is now Syria, giving the modern state some claim on cultural developments both eastern and western. Very poetic, and possibly polemic. Still trying to decide.
*Highly recommend a visit to the museum. In spite of critiques above, access to so many objects and the quiet, relaxed atmosphere of the museum are hard to beat. Absolutely amazing place, will be excited to follow its development.
Umayyad Mosque
Finally made it to the most important site in Damascus: the mosque.
A few notes:
Shoes cannot be worn. Most people carry their shoes around inside the mosque. Bare feet are fine (the floors are marble or carpeted), but if you have strange phobias like M, bring socks.
Women must wear one of the robes that are provided in the "putting on clothes room." If you bring a scarf to cover your head, you dont need to wear the hood (it slips constantly, scarf recommended).
Access to the large minaret on the north side appear to be limited. :(
Visitors appear to be allowed in at any time. Indoors, the prayer hall is divided between men and women - women stay towards the back. The guards allow foreign women into the "men only" part, but E felt much more at ease staying back in the womens section and was able to still see everything. As with most things in Syria, rules are more like guidelines.
Contrary to our expectations, the mosque is not a quiet, solemn, religious place. It is more of a home within the city. Children run and play games in the marble courtyard, people nap in the shade of the buildings, and girls socialize in the prayer hall. Not so different from the schmoozing in the synagogue or the whispers and giggles of churchgoers on Sunday. The mosque was delightful, and a great place to relax and enjoy centuries of architectural beauty.
A few notes:
Shoes cannot be worn. Most people carry their shoes around inside the mosque. Bare feet are fine (the floors are marble or carpeted), but if you have strange phobias like M, bring socks.
Women must wear one of the robes that are provided in the "putting on clothes room." If you bring a scarf to cover your head, you dont need to wear the hood (it slips constantly, scarf recommended).
Access to the large minaret on the north side appear to be limited. :(
Visitors appear to be allowed in at any time. Indoors, the prayer hall is divided between men and women - women stay towards the back. The guards allow foreign women into the "men only" part, but E felt much more at ease staying back in the womens section and was able to still see everything. As with most things in Syria, rules are more like guidelines.
Contrary to our expectations, the mosque is not a quiet, solemn, religious place. It is more of a home within the city. Children run and play games in the marble courtyard, people nap in the shade of the buildings, and girls socialize in the prayer hall. Not so different from the schmoozing in the synagogue or the whispers and giggles of churchgoers on Sunday. The mosque was delightful, and a great place to relax and enjoy centuries of architectural beauty.
Fatoush hands
We wandered the Jewish quarter of the Old City yesterday afternoon but didn't see anything Jewish about it.
While walking around the area, we were stopped by a friendly grocery store owner who insisted that we take a brief tour of his friend's hotel (which was admittedly nice, but well outside of our price range) and then spend some time resting with him at his store. It was clear that he was interested in practicing his English and we were happy to talk for a few minutes. When he was done with his questions, he called up his sister who was also interested in practicing her English and had many more questions for us. In the corner of the store, his elderly mother was making the final preparations on some fatoush (using her hands to mix the ingredients) and then proceeded to dish it out to us. Turning down food or drink that is offered to you is very offensive here, but based on the conditions in the store and the method of preparation we were certain even a bite would keep us in the hotel for at least a few days. Instead of eating we offered to take some photos with my camera. Unfortunately, his mother wanted to hold M's camera with her fatoush-covered hands... Oy.
While walking around the area, we were stopped by a friendly grocery store owner who insisted that we take a brief tour of his friend's hotel (which was admittedly nice, but well outside of our price range) and then spend some time resting with him at his store. It was clear that he was interested in practicing his English and we were happy to talk for a few minutes. When he was done with his questions, he called up his sister who was also interested in practicing her English and had many more questions for us. In the corner of the store, his elderly mother was making the final preparations on some fatoush (using her hands to mix the ingredients) and then proceeded to dish it out to us. Turning down food or drink that is offered to you is very offensive here, but based on the conditions in the store and the method of preparation we were certain even a bite would keep us in the hotel for at least a few days. Instead of eating we offered to take some photos with my camera. Unfortunately, his mother wanted to hold M's camera with her fatoush-covered hands... Oy.
"Western" food in Damascus
We wanted to see more of Damascus beyond our bathroom, so last night we sought out some more familiar Western food. The highlight was the Mexican Nachos we ordered. The tortilla chips were actually Doritos and the sour cream was a reddish-brown color...fortunately we asked for that on the side. The search for food that will not ravage our stomachs continues... We thought hummus was a safe bet, but apparently not!
Pop Quiz
Why were so many people staring at E and M in the Damascus Old City cafe?
a. because of their light-colored hair and blue eyes
b. because they were picking all of the vegetable and cheese off of their pizza
c. because M wasn't using the nargileh properly
d. all of the above
hint: we think the answer is d
a. because of their light-colored hair and blue eyes
b. because they were picking all of the vegetable and cheese off of their pizza
c. because M wasn't using the nargileh properly
d. all of the above
hint: we think the answer is d
Damascus Duck Hunt
I guess this could happen to anyone anywhere, but it happened to us in Damascus, by the citadel, just outside the old city.
M was posing for a picture in front of an archway. I was about to take the photo and whomp! a Damascus pigeon drops from the sky and hits the pavement just behind M. Not clear if pigeon is dead or alive.
Then, two women and a man walk by. The man picks up the bird in his hand, unsuccessfully tries to set it on a fence, and then carries it off with him.
Sadly, in our shock, no photo was taken.
*Birds seem to be a favorite here in Damascus. Many shops have caged birds (including this internet cafe). Cats, on the other hand, appear not to be pets - feral cats run all over the city.
M was posing for a picture in front of an archway. I was about to take the photo and whomp! a Damascus pigeon drops from the sky and hits the pavement just behind M. Not clear if pigeon is dead or alive.
Then, two women and a man walk by. The man picks up the bird in his hand, unsuccessfully tries to set it on a fence, and then carries it off with him.
Sadly, in our shock, no photo was taken.
*Birds seem to be a favorite here in Damascus. Many shops have caged birds (including this internet cafe). Cats, on the other hand, appear not to be pets - feral cats run all over the city.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Impressions of Damascus
Four days into our stay in Damascus, an enormous city is beginning to feel a bit small. We've wandered the same route through the Old City 3 times now, each time trying to peek down different alleys to get new glimpses of the city's amazing architecture. E is in love with the beautifully crafted doors (photos coming soon). We've been relying on the Lonely Planet map to help us navigate, which is only moderately helpful. We came upon some beautiful buildings and churches but often times could not determine what they were because all of the signs are in Arabic and street signs are few and far between.
We spent yesterday evening in the Christian quarter and wandered off a main road to find a Greek Orthodox church with an exhibit on St. Paul and his role in developing the Christian religion, which is said to have begun in Damascus (Saul became Paul on the "Road to Damascus", now Straight Street). Today we will be visiting the Jewish quarter of the city. Muslims, Christians and Jews live in harmony in Damascus.
The souqs are impressive sights. We've come across some beautifully crafted rugs, tablecloths and lamps, some of which we hope to purchase when we return to Damascus in July. There is also a spice section of the souq with so many wonderful smells.
We have met many friendly shop owners. We hope to meet more local people and get a better sense of the culture by just sitting in a cafe this afternoon reading and snacking, with a nargileh of course.
You can see an overview of the city and some of the sites we have visited on this Google map.
We spent yesterday evening in the Christian quarter and wandered off a main road to find a Greek Orthodox church with an exhibit on St. Paul and his role in developing the Christian religion, which is said to have begun in Damascus (Saul became Paul on the "Road to Damascus", now Straight Street). Today we will be visiting the Jewish quarter of the city. Muslims, Christians and Jews live in harmony in Damascus.
The souqs are impressive sights. We've come across some beautifully crafted rugs, tablecloths and lamps, some of which we hope to purchase when we return to Damascus in July. There is also a spice section of the souq with so many wonderful smells.
We have met many friendly shop owners. We hope to meet more local people and get a better sense of the culture by just sitting in a cafe this afternoon reading and snacking, with a nargileh of course.
You can see an overview of the city and some of the sites we have visited on this Google map.
WDDM?
In an update on donkeys, two small children said "hello" to us yesterday and then started saying "donkey, donkey."
What does "donkey" mean?!
What does "donkey" mean?!
Syria : 1, M : 0
On our first full day out, we started trying Syrian food.
Here's a list of M's food intake:
Bread and Jam
Tabuleh
Fatouch
Eggplant dish
Various breads
Lamb chop
2 kinds of lamb sausage (4 links in total)
2 kinds of lamb kebab
Baba Ganoush
Chicken Kebab
Ice cream
M was sick the whole following morning and afternoon.
Question: Will he do it again?
Here's a list of M's food intake:
Bread and Jam
Tabuleh
Fatouch
Eggplant dish
Various breads
Lamb chop
2 kinds of lamb sausage (4 links in total)
2 kinds of lamb kebab
Baba Ganoush
Chicken Kebab
Ice cream
M was sick the whole following morning and afternoon.
Question: Will he do it again?
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Day 2 Headlines
Syria man gets a call, Bryan Adams "Look into your eyes" ring tone plays.
Everyone has a car, wants to drive you around the country -- price unknown.
Four Seasons--hands down the best meal ever. mmmm kebabs. (M's special lunch)
E like a kid in a candy store at the Damascus National Museum. "Where is the goddess with the water vessel???"
M eating and eating and eating. (but not sick... yet!)
Yesterday: lecture about US government. Today: tea with welcoming shop owners in Old City.
Everyone has a car, wants to drive you around the country -- price unknown.
Four Seasons--hands down the best meal ever. mmmm kebabs. (M's special lunch)
E like a kid in a candy store at the Damascus National Museum. "Where is the goddess with the water vessel???"
M eating and eating and eating. (but not sick... yet!)
Yesterday: lecture about US government. Today: tea with welcoming shop owners in Old City.
The Road to Damascus
Travel to Syria was a bit of a blur. M saw Nick in London, E saw her professor at the British Museum. Our first introduction to Syria was on the flight from London to Damascus: lots of chatting families and children playing in the aisles. Crowded and cheery, characteristics we have found to be true of Syrians in general.
Were dropped off at our hotel (Sultan Hotel) at 4 am, walked down an alley, rode a cramped elevator and arrived in the lobby. Our room has 3 twin beds, a closet sized bathroom (the shower head has free reign over the whole area), and a view of a dilapidated old building across the street. The birds sing in the morning and the AC works. VERY WELL.
M admits that he was a bit over-confident about how easy this trip would be. Day one was a good lesson in what NOT to do in Syria. Lesson one: don't walk around with your guide book out. Within minutes we were surrounded by not one, not two, but at least 5 different men "helping" with directions. Lesson two: don't go to sandwich shops recommended by Lonely Planet. Rotten tomatoes and western stomachs? Bad idea. We then proceeded to hail a cab to a restaurant that supposedly served some "western" dishes. Lesson three: taxi drivers don't speak English. Our driver kept hailing people on the street for help with directions. Still trying to figure out why he kept saying "donkey" and turning back to look at us instead of focusing on the CRAZY traffic ahead of him (you think Boston drivers are bad?). Made it to the restaurant eventually and had some fantastic food.
Were dropped off at our hotel (Sultan Hotel) at 4 am, walked down an alley, rode a cramped elevator and arrived in the lobby. Our room has 3 twin beds, a closet sized bathroom (the shower head has free reign over the whole area), and a view of a dilapidated old building across the street. The birds sing in the morning and the AC works. VERY WELL.
M admits that he was a bit over-confident about how easy this trip would be. Day one was a good lesson in what NOT to do in Syria. Lesson one: don't walk around with your guide book out. Within minutes we were surrounded by not one, not two, but at least 5 different men "helping" with directions. Lesson two: don't go to sandwich shops recommended by Lonely Planet. Rotten tomatoes and western stomachs? Bad idea. We then proceeded to hail a cab to a restaurant that supposedly served some "western" dishes. Lesson three: taxi drivers don't speak English. Our driver kept hailing people on the street for help with directions. Still trying to figure out why he kept saying "donkey" and turning back to look at us instead of focusing on the CRAZY traffic ahead of him (you think Boston drivers are bad?). Made it to the restaurant eventually and had some fantastic food.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Top 3 Reasons to love the Mari Water Goddess
Just returned from the Aleppo Museum. With the Mari water goddess. E in heaven...
Top 3 Reasons to love the Mari Water Goddess
3. horns make the woman (goddess, actually)
2. lookin' good for c. 3700 years buried in dirt
1. she's technologically advanced with a pump in the back (i.e. she's a fountain!)
Top 3 Reasons to love the Mari Water Goddess
3. horns make the woman (goddess, actually)
2. lookin' good for c. 3700 years buried in dirt
1. she's technologically advanced with a pump in the back (i.e. she's a fountain!)
Primary Reasons for Syria '09
#3. Museums, museums, museums. Damascus, Aleppo, and many more. All filled with antiquities.
#7. E figures anything is better than a summer in NYC.
#17. Because M never met a kebab he didn’t like.
#23. E wants to write a dissertation on religion at Mari, Emar, and Ugarit. Stay tuned for more about these sites(!!!)
#41. M quit work. Clearly lazy, but useful for airport and bus terminal navigation, so I decided to bring him along.
-E
#7. E figures anything is better than a summer in NYC.
#17. Because M never met a kebab he didn’t like.
#23. E wants to write a dissertation on religion at Mari, Emar, and Ugarit. Stay tuned for more about these sites(!!!)
#41. M quit work. Clearly lazy, but useful for airport and bus terminal navigation, so I decided to bring him along.
-E
Monday, May 18, 2009
Itinerary
For those following our trip, the tentative plan is:
May 25: Arrival in Damascus (actual arrival = AM of the 26th)
May 26 – June 1: Damascus
June 1 – June 4: Palmyra
June 4 – June 8: Deir es-Zor
June 8 – June 21: Aleppo
June 21 – June 26: Lattakia
June 26 – July 2: Hama
July 2 – July 7: Damascus
If you’re following on the map, that’s a counter-clockwise tour of Syria beginning in the SW.
May 25: Arrival in Damascus (actual arrival = AM of the 26th)
May 26 – June 1: Damascus
June 1 – June 4: Palmyra
June 4 – June 8: Deir es-Zor
June 8 – June 21: Aleppo
June 21 – June 26: Lattakia
June 26 – July 2: Hama
July 2 – July 7: Damascus
If you’re following on the map, that’s a counter-clockwise tour of Syria beginning in the SW.
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