Ma as-Salamah. Farewell, Syria.

In Damascus, we are regularly asked how we find Syria. Everyone is very concerned with the impression of Syria in the Western media, and wants Syria to be known for its good people and safe travel.

Since we are at the end of our trip, we thought this would be a good time to go back over some of our expectations, surprises, and impressions.

E expected Syria to be a place of surprises, but had no idea what these surprises might be. M assumed the travel would be easy and was surprised by some of the challenges.

We were largely pleased with the generosity of the people we met, and the difficulty of refusing a cup of tea. Backgammon, nargilehs, and children are signs of a good life. Young boys run around all over Syria. They fall down, and they get up without crying and keep running around. Older boys balance on the tops of ruins. Women, young and old, move in flocks. The run-ins we had that were not positive, seem to derive from the parts of society that are more sexually segregated and repressed (largely in Aleppo and Hama). We saw no anti-Western behavior. There is clearly a very large young, urban population that is very in touch with the Western world - iphones, ringtones, and clothes. We wonder if big changes in culture and religion are on the horizon in Syria, but are reminded also of the very traditional lifestyles that are still found around the country as well.

Traveling is not easy, but works well with patience and the recognition that time in Syria does not run on Western clocks. We had mixed experiences with food and wish our stash of granola bars had been greater. Mid-range hotels were largely bug-free and AC-ed, but probably best parallel budget-range hotels in the Western world. Busses work well for moves between major cities, the major downside of train travel is the difficulty of purchasing tickets and the early-departure times. Private cars are great for sites, but smoking drivers and other problems may arise. Prices are always to high, so bargain, bargain, bargain. Gas costs nothing here, so calculate by the time. Shopping in the souqs is a must-do, but dont expect to find "unique" treasures. Bargain, and look for workshops if there is time.

We came here for E to visit the sites and museums and we are leaving having seen so much more. Tells are not for everyone, but they are for us. Syria is often called the "crossroads" of civilizations and we saw why. Sites in Syria cover almost all of human history. People come here to see Crusader sites or Islamic architecture at its finest but they also find some of the best preserved Roman ruins in the world and dozens of ancient tells. Many times, as with the statues from Palmyra, the blending of West and East artistic traditions is evident. Christians and Muslims cohabit in the major cities, and sties like Dura Europos reminded us that this is not a new circumstance. Sites in mountains, on the sea, and in the desert exhibit a variety of adjustments to the local environment: brick architecture near the mountains, mud-brick along the Euphrates, and the tents of the Bedouins still dot the perimeters of the cities.

It wasn’t easy, but it was remarkable. Inshallah, we will see Syria again.