Met an Austrailian couple in Palmyra. They say traveling in Iran is wonderful and the people are VERY welcoming and happy to see travellers and speak with them.
Hooray for world peace.
Add Iran to the list.
We are adding "Travller's Alert" for anyone who comes across this blog that is planning travel to the Middle East and Syria especially.
Saturday, June 6, 2009
Google map-alicious
Finally got into google maps.
Follow the links for satellite views of our places over the past week:
Palmyra
Qadesh and Qatna
Deir es-Zor (with Mari, Dura Europos, and Halabiye)
Follow the links for satellite views of our places over the past week:
Palmyra
Qadesh and Qatna
Deir es-Zor (with Mari, Dura Europos, and Halabiye)
Thursday, June 4, 2009
Recipe for a successful Kadmous experience
Kadmous = bus from Palmyra to Deir es-Zor.
1 bad batch of spaghetti the night before travel (spaghetti shoudl be safe, right?!?)
1 morning in the bathroom (stomach hurts sooo much)
1 immodium (+other medication for sleeping)
1 hot desert day
1 taxi ride to station with driver who is trying to tell you alternative (more expensive) ways to travel
1 45 minute wait in a station with many flies (and a meat carcass)
1 terrifying trip to the bathroom (= hole in the ground)
40 other Syrian passengers staring at the only Western travellers (clearly confused and in the way)
2 large back that have to go under the bus (this means forfeiting the spot at the front of the line and boarding LAST)
1 2.5 hour ride (thank g*d for air con)
1 interrogation at police station upon arrival
1 rush to get the bags before the bus departs again
All said and done, we are now in Deir es-Zor. E is eating bread and peanut butter.
1 bad batch of spaghetti the night before travel (spaghetti shoudl be safe, right?!?)
1 morning in the bathroom (stomach hurts sooo much)
1 immodium (+other medication for sleeping)
1 hot desert day
1 taxi ride to station with driver who is trying to tell you alternative (more expensive) ways to travel
1 45 minute wait in a station with many flies (and a meat carcass)
1 terrifying trip to the bathroom (= hole in the ground)
40 other Syrian passengers staring at the only Western travellers (clearly confused and in the way)
2 large back that have to go under the bus (this means forfeiting the spot at the front of the line and boarding LAST)
1 2.5 hour ride (thank g*d for air con)
1 interrogation at police station upon arrival
1 rush to get the bags before the bus departs again
All said and done, we are now in Deir es-Zor. E is eating bread and peanut butter.
Locals at Palmyra
This post is from E.
One of the saddest things I have ever seen.
Two tourist women atop a camel being led through the ruined collonade by a small boy singing Arabic songs. The singing was obviously meant to be part of the experience, but what child should have to sing for money? Music for me has always been very personal, and to see it being so depersonalized for such a young child is a strong reminder of the affect of Western tourism and Western money on the local economy and community.
Could post more examples of seeming changes in local community based due to excessive tourism, but will leave it here.
One of the saddest things I have ever seen.
Two tourist women atop a camel being led through the ruined collonade by a small boy singing Arabic songs. The singing was obviously meant to be part of the experience, but what child should have to sing for money? Music for me has always been very personal, and to see it being so depersonalized for such a young child is a strong reminder of the affect of Western tourism and Western money on the local economy and community.
Could post more examples of seeming changes in local community based due to excessive tourism, but will leave it here.
Palmyra
So much to say, so little space/time.
Top 5 favorite (or not) moments:
(1) 5am visit to Diocletian's camp / Zenobia palace. Its on the edge of the ruins. And behind the building are stairs going up into the one remaining tower and a tomb cut into a cave. Amazing view from the tower (c. 15 feet high).
(2) The necropolis. An area full of tombs behind the ancient site. Tower tombs, house tombs, tombs cut into caves. Counted at least 50. Ruins felt untouched and many open for wandering. Did we mention we were the only people there? (6.30am long walk worth it.)
(3) The smell of the Ishtar Hotel's bathroom. yucky.
(4) Sunset from the citadel. Overlooking the ruins (facing East). Realized at the last moment that behind the citadel has an ever MORE amazing view of the sun setting in the desert mountains. Applause from many tourist as the sun dissapeared.
(5) The blisters. Why didn't we buy good walking shoes?
(6) Ruins overall: peaceful in the early am and late pm. Very untouched, pretty well preserved. Major contrast to what you see in Rome. Very authentic feeling. Highly recommended.
(7) Resteraunt selling point: (owner pointing to two people walking on street) "They ate here last night and didnt get sick."
(8) Camel noises. haha.
(9) Kittens on the terrace. Hungry for you dinner. Will moew, will circle the table, will congrate, will jump up on the seat and try to lick your knife. Soooo cute. And yet so diseased.
(10) Bel temple. Again, for the best Roman(esque) architecture, go to Palmyra. Even with a tourist group inside it is not crowded. M posing as sacrifical (sweaty) lamb by altar = major highlight.
SEE PALMYRA HERE
Top 5 favorite (or not) moments:
(1) 5am visit to Diocletian's camp / Zenobia palace. Its on the edge of the ruins. And behind the building are stairs going up into the one remaining tower and a tomb cut into a cave. Amazing view from the tower (c. 15 feet high).
(2) The necropolis. An area full of tombs behind the ancient site. Tower tombs, house tombs, tombs cut into caves. Counted at least 50. Ruins felt untouched and many open for wandering. Did we mention we were the only people there? (6.30am long walk worth it.)
(3) The smell of the Ishtar Hotel's bathroom. yucky.
(4) Sunset from the citadel. Overlooking the ruins (facing East). Realized at the last moment that behind the citadel has an ever MORE amazing view of the sun setting in the desert mountains. Applause from many tourist as the sun dissapeared.
(5) The blisters. Why didn't we buy good walking shoes?
(6) Ruins overall: peaceful in the early am and late pm. Very untouched, pretty well preserved. Major contrast to what you see in Rome. Very authentic feeling. Highly recommended.
(7) Resteraunt selling point: (owner pointing to two people walking on street) "They ate here last night and didnt get sick."
(8) Camel noises. haha.
(9) Kittens on the terrace. Hungry for you dinner. Will moew, will circle the table, will congrate, will jump up on the seat and try to lick your knife. Soooo cute. And yet so diseased.
(10) Bel temple. Again, for the best Roman(esque) architecture, go to Palmyra. Even with a tourist group inside it is not crowded. M posing as sacrifical (sweaty) lamb by altar = major highlight.
SEE PALMYRA HERE
Qadesh and Qatna
Qadesh = Tell Nebi Mend / Nebi Mendo
Qadesh Highlights:
E - Orontes river: Ramses claims the Hittite drowned trying to swim across the river when retreating. Today, the river is hardly more than a meandering stream.
M - Visions of movie battles dance through head (Think Troy, 300). Later realizes battle in 1200 BC isn't so epic or well organized.
E - The MOUND. According to records of the battle, the army opposing Ramses camped behind the city. The mound is big enough and high enough to theoretically hide a large group of soldiers behind. A whole army???
M - The wind. Near Homs is the only break in the mountains that run N-S along the coast of Syria and Lebanon. This "Homs gap" is famous for the strong wind, and we definatley felt it. E wished she had bought a hat with a strap.
Directions from Damascus:
Drive twoards Homs
Take the turn off before Homs for Al Qusayr
Arriving in Al Qusayr, ask directions for Nebi Mend(o)
Nebi Mendo is about a 4km drive past Al Qusayr
You will pass the Orontes river and see in the distance a tell rising above the rest of the land.
There is a small village covering part of the ancient mound
You can drive up on the mound and wander for the scenery / view of the land
Qatna Highlights:
M and E - First excavated tell!! (Fun to wander, not well labelled.)
M - The ramparts from the distance. The city ramparts surround a 100 hectare site, in a square. Atop these ramparts (large hills now), views of the entire site are possible. Also, the inside of the site lies c. 10 meters below the top of these hills. Felt like we were inside a crater.
E - Multiple occupation layers. Ancient city rebuilt several times. More recent ruins as well. Also, sites are excavated in grids where small squares of space are excavated. This means you have to be able to see the difference between the walls of the excavations and the ancient walls of rooms and buildings. E's archaeological eyes need more training.
M - Saw 2 bones aying near the more recent ruins. Got hungry.
E - Sheep grazing in the far corner fo the tell. baaaa. (M saw dog in distance, got scared (re-occuring theme).)
Directions from Homs:
Take the raod towards Salamiyya
Go to Mishrife (on the road to Salamiyya)
Ignore the sign that says ancient tell
Take the first major left after the sign for the tell
Entrance for site at the end of the road
(There is a visitor's sign in around the corner from the entrance)
SEE QADESH AND QATNA HERE
Qadesh Highlights:
E - Orontes river: Ramses claims the Hittite drowned trying to swim across the river when retreating. Today, the river is hardly more than a meandering stream.
M - Visions of movie battles dance through head (Think Troy, 300). Later realizes battle in 1200 BC isn't so epic or well organized.
E - The MOUND. According to records of the battle, the army opposing Ramses camped behind the city. The mound is big enough and high enough to theoretically hide a large group of soldiers behind. A whole army???
M - The wind. Near Homs is the only break in the mountains that run N-S along the coast of Syria and Lebanon. This "Homs gap" is famous for the strong wind, and we definatley felt it. E wished she had bought a hat with a strap.
Directions from Damascus:
Drive twoards Homs
Take the turn off before Homs for Al Qusayr
Arriving in Al Qusayr, ask directions for Nebi Mend(o)
Nebi Mendo is about a 4km drive past Al Qusayr
You will pass the Orontes river and see in the distance a tell rising above the rest of the land.
There is a small village covering part of the ancient mound
You can drive up on the mound and wander for the scenery / view of the land
Qatna Highlights:
M and E - First excavated tell!! (Fun to wander, not well labelled.)
M - The ramparts from the distance. The city ramparts surround a 100 hectare site, in a square. Atop these ramparts (large hills now), views of the entire site are possible. Also, the inside of the site lies c. 10 meters below the top of these hills. Felt like we were inside a crater.
E - Multiple occupation layers. Ancient city rebuilt several times. More recent ruins as well. Also, sites are excavated in grids where small squares of space are excavated. This means you have to be able to see the difference between the walls of the excavations and the ancient walls of rooms and buildings. E's archaeological eyes need more training.
M - Saw 2 bones aying near the more recent ruins. Got hungry.
E - Sheep grazing in the far corner fo the tell. baaaa. (M saw dog in distance, got scared (re-occuring theme).)
Directions from Homs:
Take the raod towards Salamiyya
Go to Mishrife (on the road to Salamiyya)
Ignore the sign that says ancient tell
Take the first major left after the sign for the tell
Entrance for site at the end of the road
(There is a visitor's sign in around the corner from the entrance)
SEE QADESH AND QATNA HERE
Wednesday, June 3, 2009
Palmyra
Three days and two early morning sunrises later, we are in Palmyra and back at the computer. Computers here are very slow, so in breif, the past three days:
Monday: Drive from Damascus to Palmyra with stops at the ancient sites Qadesh and Qatna. Qadesh is the site of the best-known battle in the ancient world resulting in the famed "first" international peace treaty (copy of the treaty in the United Nations, NYC). Qatna is a major ancient city, M read it is one of the "up and coming ancient sites" for Syria. We reached both thanks to the heavy foot, patience, fantastic English skills, and relentlessness of our driver Amar.
Amar got us to Palmyra late Monday night.
Tuesday and Wednesday: Palmyra, the most famous tourist destination in Syria. Best known from Roman times, when the Syria queen Zenobia asserted her power across the region. Massive ruins, largely untouched by the modern city. Agora, senate, 2 Bel temples (yes!), collonnade, valley with 50+ tombs, a later citadel overlooking the site, and stones scattered everywhere. Have risen 2 mornings at 4.30am to catch sunrise and the ruins in first light, also saw the sunset from the citadel.
A few comments:
(1) Desert is freezing when the sun is down. Incredible wind as well. Gets hot FAST.
(2) Food options limitted, stiff competition from the many "restaraunts." One owner actually tells people they wont get sick from his food, if that is any indication of the dining quality here.
(3) E expected the local population to be relatively removed from the ancient site and the tourism, but the opposite is true. Stiff competition between taxi drivers, "guides" at the sites, hotel owners, etc. Everyone knows at least a little English (and Italian) and is quite bold (sellers, Bedouin, children, cats on the terrace resteraunt, etc).
(4) Finally, a word on Bedouin transporation. Camel is more of a tourist attraction than a reality these days - we have seen "tricycle" trucks, run down jeeps and gazillions of motorbikes.
All for now, hopefully more later (including map).
Monday: Drive from Damascus to Palmyra with stops at the ancient sites Qadesh and Qatna. Qadesh is the site of the best-known battle in the ancient world resulting in the famed "first" international peace treaty (copy of the treaty in the United Nations, NYC). Qatna is a major ancient city, M read it is one of the "up and coming ancient sites" for Syria. We reached both thanks to the heavy foot, patience, fantastic English skills, and relentlessness of our driver Amar.
Amar got us to Palmyra late Monday night.
Tuesday and Wednesday: Palmyra, the most famous tourist destination in Syria. Best known from Roman times, when the Syria queen Zenobia asserted her power across the region. Massive ruins, largely untouched by the modern city. Agora, senate, 2 Bel temples (yes!), collonnade, valley with 50+ tombs, a later citadel overlooking the site, and stones scattered everywhere. Have risen 2 mornings at 4.30am to catch sunrise and the ruins in first light, also saw the sunset from the citadel.
A few comments:
(1) Desert is freezing when the sun is down. Incredible wind as well. Gets hot FAST.
(2) Food options limitted, stiff competition from the many "restaraunts." One owner actually tells people they wont get sick from his food, if that is any indication of the dining quality here.
(3) E expected the local population to be relatively removed from the ancient site and the tourism, but the opposite is true. Stiff competition between taxi drivers, "guides" at the sites, hotel owners, etc. Everyone knows at least a little English (and Italian) and is quite bold (sellers, Bedouin, children, cats on the terrace resteraunt, etc).
(4) Finally, a word on Bedouin transporation. Camel is more of a tourist attraction than a reality these days - we have seen "tricycle" trucks, run down jeeps and gazillions of motorbikes.
All for now, hopefully more later (including map).
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