We spent more time at the Damascus National Museum as E wants to see the ancient objects and understand the history of museums in the non-Western world better.* From the research notebook:
Exhibition standards here are very different from those in the United States: recreations are common (reconstructions, a fake finger with an ancient ring), some cases need updating (a seal upside down, only some objects labeled), and there are indications that the museum needs further funding (light bulbs burned out, a fountain not working, etc).
Access to collections can be limited: a room closed for restoration or chained off, guards watch over the room with the synagogue painting from Dura Europos closely and tell you when to leave, and no photography is allowed. (Having said this, guards told us to go up the stairs to the three floors above and let us in a room closed for restoration.) Access to information is also limited as any given object could have: no label, a label in French and English, or a label in French. I suspect that the French have had a heavy hand in the construction and organization of this museum, particularly the sections on the ancient art and artifacts. For example, the second floor has a new-ish exhibit on the pioneers of Syrian archaeology. The exhibit is heavily based on texts, biographies, and old photographs, with a few of the most important objects found in Syria tucked away in back corners (the statue pair from Qatna and the Ishtar stela - over 4 feet high). Everything is in French.
Ugarit is a highlight sight in Syria for many with an interest in ancient history - and the objects from Ugarit have a prominent place in the National Museum. The Ugarit room is the first room on the right side (upon entry) of the museum and there appear to have been past exhibits devoted to this site. Interestingly, visitors access rooms with objects from Mari and Ebla (which are both older than Ugarit) by going through the Ugarit collection. In other words, there is no chronological organization of the museum based upon history. I have yet to check this out carefully, but the ancient objects appear to be on the same side as the later Islamic objects, while the other end of the museum houses the collections from Palmyra, Dura Europos, and Byzantine periods. One final note - the smallest Ugaritic tablet on display (2'' x 1'') with only two lines of text with the Ugaritic alphabet is proudly displayed and the Ugaritic alphabet is heralded as the ancestor for all modern alphabets. While this claim is basically true, the interest in this piece appears to derive from its discovery in the land that is now Syria, giving the modern state some claim on cultural developments both eastern and western. Very poetic, and possibly polemic. Still trying to decide.
*Highly recommend a visit to the museum. In spite of critiques above, access to so many objects and the quiet, relaxed atmosphere of the museum are hard to beat. Absolutely amazing place, will be excited to follow its development.
Sunday, May 31, 2009
Umayyad Mosque
Finally made it to the most important site in Damascus: the mosque.
A few notes:
Shoes cannot be worn. Most people carry their shoes around inside the mosque. Bare feet are fine (the floors are marble or carpeted), but if you have strange phobias like M, bring socks.
Women must wear one of the robes that are provided in the "putting on clothes room." If you bring a scarf to cover your head, you dont need to wear the hood (it slips constantly, scarf recommended).
Access to the large minaret on the north side appear to be limited. :(
Visitors appear to be allowed in at any time. Indoors, the prayer hall is divided between men and women - women stay towards the back. The guards allow foreign women into the "men only" part, but E felt much more at ease staying back in the womens section and was able to still see everything. As with most things in Syria, rules are more like guidelines.
Contrary to our expectations, the mosque is not a quiet, solemn, religious place. It is more of a home within the city. Children run and play games in the marble courtyard, people nap in the shade of the buildings, and girls socialize in the prayer hall. Not so different from the schmoozing in the synagogue or the whispers and giggles of churchgoers on Sunday. The mosque was delightful, and a great place to relax and enjoy centuries of architectural beauty.
A few notes:
Shoes cannot be worn. Most people carry their shoes around inside the mosque. Bare feet are fine (the floors are marble or carpeted), but if you have strange phobias like M, bring socks.
Women must wear one of the robes that are provided in the "putting on clothes room." If you bring a scarf to cover your head, you dont need to wear the hood (it slips constantly, scarf recommended).
Access to the large minaret on the north side appear to be limited. :(
Visitors appear to be allowed in at any time. Indoors, the prayer hall is divided between men and women - women stay towards the back. The guards allow foreign women into the "men only" part, but E felt much more at ease staying back in the womens section and was able to still see everything. As with most things in Syria, rules are more like guidelines.
Contrary to our expectations, the mosque is not a quiet, solemn, religious place. It is more of a home within the city. Children run and play games in the marble courtyard, people nap in the shade of the buildings, and girls socialize in the prayer hall. Not so different from the schmoozing in the synagogue or the whispers and giggles of churchgoers on Sunday. The mosque was delightful, and a great place to relax and enjoy centuries of architectural beauty.
Fatoush hands
We wandered the Jewish quarter of the Old City yesterday afternoon but didn't see anything Jewish about it.
While walking around the area, we were stopped by a friendly grocery store owner who insisted that we take a brief tour of his friend's hotel (which was admittedly nice, but well outside of our price range) and then spend some time resting with him at his store. It was clear that he was interested in practicing his English and we were happy to talk for a few minutes. When he was done with his questions, he called up his sister who was also interested in practicing her English and had many more questions for us. In the corner of the store, his elderly mother was making the final preparations on some fatoush (using her hands to mix the ingredients) and then proceeded to dish it out to us. Turning down food or drink that is offered to you is very offensive here, but based on the conditions in the store and the method of preparation we were certain even a bite would keep us in the hotel for at least a few days. Instead of eating we offered to take some photos with my camera. Unfortunately, his mother wanted to hold M's camera with her fatoush-covered hands... Oy.
While walking around the area, we were stopped by a friendly grocery store owner who insisted that we take a brief tour of his friend's hotel (which was admittedly nice, but well outside of our price range) and then spend some time resting with him at his store. It was clear that he was interested in practicing his English and we were happy to talk for a few minutes. When he was done with his questions, he called up his sister who was also interested in practicing her English and had many more questions for us. In the corner of the store, his elderly mother was making the final preparations on some fatoush (using her hands to mix the ingredients) and then proceeded to dish it out to us. Turning down food or drink that is offered to you is very offensive here, but based on the conditions in the store and the method of preparation we were certain even a bite would keep us in the hotel for at least a few days. Instead of eating we offered to take some photos with my camera. Unfortunately, his mother wanted to hold M's camera with her fatoush-covered hands... Oy.
"Western" food in Damascus
We wanted to see more of Damascus beyond our bathroom, so last night we sought out some more familiar Western food. The highlight was the Mexican Nachos we ordered. The tortilla chips were actually Doritos and the sour cream was a reddish-brown color...fortunately we asked for that on the side. The search for food that will not ravage our stomachs continues... We thought hummus was a safe bet, but apparently not!
Pop Quiz
Why were so many people staring at E and M in the Damascus Old City cafe?
a. because of their light-colored hair and blue eyes
b. because they were picking all of the vegetable and cheese off of their pizza
c. because M wasn't using the nargileh properly
d. all of the above
hint: we think the answer is d
a. because of their light-colored hair and blue eyes
b. because they were picking all of the vegetable and cheese off of their pizza
c. because M wasn't using the nargileh properly
d. all of the above
hint: we think the answer is d
Damascus Duck Hunt
I guess this could happen to anyone anywhere, but it happened to us in Damascus, by the citadel, just outside the old city.
M was posing for a picture in front of an archway. I was about to take the photo and whomp! a Damascus pigeon drops from the sky and hits the pavement just behind M. Not clear if pigeon is dead or alive.
Then, two women and a man walk by. The man picks up the bird in his hand, unsuccessfully tries to set it on a fence, and then carries it off with him.
Sadly, in our shock, no photo was taken.
*Birds seem to be a favorite here in Damascus. Many shops have caged birds (including this internet cafe). Cats, on the other hand, appear not to be pets - feral cats run all over the city.
M was posing for a picture in front of an archway. I was about to take the photo and whomp! a Damascus pigeon drops from the sky and hits the pavement just behind M. Not clear if pigeon is dead or alive.
Then, two women and a man walk by. The man picks up the bird in his hand, unsuccessfully tries to set it on a fence, and then carries it off with him.
Sadly, in our shock, no photo was taken.
*Birds seem to be a favorite here in Damascus. Many shops have caged birds (including this internet cafe). Cats, on the other hand, appear not to be pets - feral cats run all over the city.
Friday, May 29, 2009
Impressions of Damascus
Four days into our stay in Damascus, an enormous city is beginning to feel a bit small. We've wandered the same route through the Old City 3 times now, each time trying to peek down different alleys to get new glimpses of the city's amazing architecture. E is in love with the beautifully crafted doors (photos coming soon). We've been relying on the Lonely Planet map to help us navigate, which is only moderately helpful. We came upon some beautiful buildings and churches but often times could not determine what they were because all of the signs are in Arabic and street signs are few and far between.
We spent yesterday evening in the Christian quarter and wandered off a main road to find a Greek Orthodox church with an exhibit on St. Paul and his role in developing the Christian religion, which is said to have begun in Damascus (Saul became Paul on the "Road to Damascus", now Straight Street). Today we will be visiting the Jewish quarter of the city. Muslims, Christians and Jews live in harmony in Damascus.
The souqs are impressive sights. We've come across some beautifully crafted rugs, tablecloths and lamps, some of which we hope to purchase when we return to Damascus in July. There is also a spice section of the souq with so many wonderful smells.
We have met many friendly shop owners. We hope to meet more local people and get a better sense of the culture by just sitting in a cafe this afternoon reading and snacking, with a nargileh of course.
You can see an overview of the city and some of the sites we have visited on this Google map.
We spent yesterday evening in the Christian quarter and wandered off a main road to find a Greek Orthodox church with an exhibit on St. Paul and his role in developing the Christian religion, which is said to have begun in Damascus (Saul became Paul on the "Road to Damascus", now Straight Street). Today we will be visiting the Jewish quarter of the city. Muslims, Christians and Jews live in harmony in Damascus.
The souqs are impressive sights. We've come across some beautifully crafted rugs, tablecloths and lamps, some of which we hope to purchase when we return to Damascus in July. There is also a spice section of the souq with so many wonderful smells.
We have met many friendly shop owners. We hope to meet more local people and get a better sense of the culture by just sitting in a cafe this afternoon reading and snacking, with a nargileh of course.
You can see an overview of the city and some of the sites we have visited on this Google map.
WDDM?
In an update on donkeys, two small children said "hello" to us yesterday and then started saying "donkey, donkey."
What does "donkey" mean?!
What does "donkey" mean?!
Syria : 1, M : 0
On our first full day out, we started trying Syrian food.
Here's a list of M's food intake:
Bread and Jam
Tabuleh
Fatouch
Eggplant dish
Various breads
Lamb chop
2 kinds of lamb sausage (4 links in total)
2 kinds of lamb kebab
Baba Ganoush
Chicken Kebab
Ice cream
M was sick the whole following morning and afternoon.
Question: Will he do it again?
Here's a list of M's food intake:
Bread and Jam
Tabuleh
Fatouch
Eggplant dish
Various breads
Lamb chop
2 kinds of lamb sausage (4 links in total)
2 kinds of lamb kebab
Baba Ganoush
Chicken Kebab
Ice cream
M was sick the whole following morning and afternoon.
Question: Will he do it again?
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Day 2 Headlines
Syria man gets a call, Bryan Adams "Look into your eyes" ring tone plays.
Everyone has a car, wants to drive you around the country -- price unknown.
Four Seasons--hands down the best meal ever. mmmm kebabs. (M's special lunch)
E like a kid in a candy store at the Damascus National Museum. "Where is the goddess with the water vessel???"
M eating and eating and eating. (but not sick... yet!)
Yesterday: lecture about US government. Today: tea with welcoming shop owners in Old City.
Everyone has a car, wants to drive you around the country -- price unknown.
Four Seasons--hands down the best meal ever. mmmm kebabs. (M's special lunch)
E like a kid in a candy store at the Damascus National Museum. "Where is the goddess with the water vessel???"
M eating and eating and eating. (but not sick... yet!)
Yesterday: lecture about US government. Today: tea with welcoming shop owners in Old City.
The Road to Damascus
Travel to Syria was a bit of a blur. M saw Nick in London, E saw her professor at the British Museum. Our first introduction to Syria was on the flight from London to Damascus: lots of chatting families and children playing in the aisles. Crowded and cheery, characteristics we have found to be true of Syrians in general.
Were dropped off at our hotel (Sultan Hotel) at 4 am, walked down an alley, rode a cramped elevator and arrived in the lobby. Our room has 3 twin beds, a closet sized bathroom (the shower head has free reign over the whole area), and a view of a dilapidated old building across the street. The birds sing in the morning and the AC works. VERY WELL.
M admits that he was a bit over-confident about how easy this trip would be. Day one was a good lesson in what NOT to do in Syria. Lesson one: don't walk around with your guide book out. Within minutes we were surrounded by not one, not two, but at least 5 different men "helping" with directions. Lesson two: don't go to sandwich shops recommended by Lonely Planet. Rotten tomatoes and western stomachs? Bad idea. We then proceeded to hail a cab to a restaurant that supposedly served some "western" dishes. Lesson three: taxi drivers don't speak English. Our driver kept hailing people on the street for help with directions. Still trying to figure out why he kept saying "donkey" and turning back to look at us instead of focusing on the CRAZY traffic ahead of him (you think Boston drivers are bad?). Made it to the restaurant eventually and had some fantastic food.
Were dropped off at our hotel (Sultan Hotel) at 4 am, walked down an alley, rode a cramped elevator and arrived in the lobby. Our room has 3 twin beds, a closet sized bathroom (the shower head has free reign over the whole area), and a view of a dilapidated old building across the street. The birds sing in the morning and the AC works. VERY WELL.
M admits that he was a bit over-confident about how easy this trip would be. Day one was a good lesson in what NOT to do in Syria. Lesson one: don't walk around with your guide book out. Within minutes we were surrounded by not one, not two, but at least 5 different men "helping" with directions. Lesson two: don't go to sandwich shops recommended by Lonely Planet. Rotten tomatoes and western stomachs? Bad idea. We then proceeded to hail a cab to a restaurant that supposedly served some "western" dishes. Lesson three: taxi drivers don't speak English. Our driver kept hailing people on the street for help with directions. Still trying to figure out why he kept saying "donkey" and turning back to look at us instead of focusing on the CRAZY traffic ahead of him (you think Boston drivers are bad?). Made it to the restaurant eventually and had some fantastic food.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Top 3 Reasons to love the Mari Water Goddess
Just returned from the Aleppo Museum. With the Mari water goddess. E in heaven...
Top 3 Reasons to love the Mari Water Goddess
3. horns make the woman (goddess, actually)
2. lookin' good for c. 3700 years buried in dirt
1. she's technologically advanced with a pump in the back (i.e. she's a fountain!)
Top 3 Reasons to love the Mari Water Goddess
3. horns make the woman (goddess, actually)
2. lookin' good for c. 3700 years buried in dirt
1. she's technologically advanced with a pump in the back (i.e. she's a fountain!)
Primary Reasons for Syria '09
#3. Museums, museums, museums. Damascus, Aleppo, and many more. All filled with antiquities.
#7. E figures anything is better than a summer in NYC.
#17. Because M never met a kebab he didn’t like.
#23. E wants to write a dissertation on religion at Mari, Emar, and Ugarit. Stay tuned for more about these sites(!!!)
#41. M quit work. Clearly lazy, but useful for airport and bus terminal navigation, so I decided to bring him along.
-E
#7. E figures anything is better than a summer in NYC.
#17. Because M never met a kebab he didn’t like.
#23. E wants to write a dissertation on religion at Mari, Emar, and Ugarit. Stay tuned for more about these sites(!!!)
#41. M quit work. Clearly lazy, but useful for airport and bus terminal navigation, so I decided to bring him along.
-E
Monday, May 18, 2009
Itinerary
For those following our trip, the tentative plan is:
May 25: Arrival in Damascus (actual arrival = AM of the 26th)
May 26 – June 1: Damascus
June 1 – June 4: Palmyra
June 4 – June 8: Deir es-Zor
June 8 – June 21: Aleppo
June 21 – June 26: Lattakia
June 26 – July 2: Hama
July 2 – July 7: Damascus
If you’re following on the map, that’s a counter-clockwise tour of Syria beginning in the SW.
May 25: Arrival in Damascus (actual arrival = AM of the 26th)
May 26 – June 1: Damascus
June 1 – June 4: Palmyra
June 4 – June 8: Deir es-Zor
June 8 – June 21: Aleppo
June 21 – June 26: Lattakia
June 26 – July 2: Hama
July 2 – July 7: Damascus
If you’re following on the map, that’s a counter-clockwise tour of Syria beginning in the SW.
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